Blumenstein Ultra Fi

It is hard to get the ball on the bottom and on each side under the brace. I found a mechanics tool called a claw grabber worked unbelievable (i kept dropping the ball with chopsticks). Luckily at a bottlehead amp building class I was given a tool set that had this device in there. Its been unused for a decade or so but boy did I find its usefulness! You can actually grab the balls tightly. Push them tight to the surface and it releases easily without disturbing the ball. I always added the drop of superglue with the silicone too - it seemed to speed up the set time.
 

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Taran, I've since edited the manual to recommend the use of one of those grabber tools, which are actually quite cheap as you don't need a long one, and I've also switched to quick set silicone that I include.  The use of superglue and silicone is fine too to speed the dry time. 
 
One of my Hammerhead posts broke today, so I replaced it with the original metal posts. To my ears the Orca's high frequencies seem more extended.  Also replaced the Radio Shack 16 ga subwoofer wires with Belken 1694A. Again, to my ears...big improvement to the Dungeness.  I've long ago given up trying to figure out whats fact and whats a sever case of audio fantasy.
 
Changing the subject a bit...

If there's anybody out there  who had the older bamboo Orcas with the  1/2" walls and then got a pair of the 3/4" birch Orca DeLuxes, can you tell me what kind of sonic differences you heard, if any, and if you installed the DOF in either or both pairs, what those differencees were like?

Thanks,

Jim
 
Ok, that last one went nowhere, so let's try something else...

Has anybody out there bought and is using the Baby Bentic sub?

I just bought a pair of these to finish my system. I love the Orcas as they are for a lot of music, but there is still a lot of music that really needs that low frequency foundation to sound it's best.

So, checking for any early user feedback on the Baby Benthics.

Thanks,

Jim
 
Ok, again, got nowhere with that last one either. Though I see that the "Baby" benthics are still not listed on the blumenstein site. Well, I think/hope that these will be the answer for extending the bottom end for those of us with small spaces, who live in apartments/condos, etc. who want to fill in the lower frequencies without annoying the neighbors and without spending for a pair of Benthics and amps for them. No, not shilling here as I'm waiting for my pair to arrive, but I am seriously hoping that these will be the last finishing touch to my system (which is sounding absolutely awesome nnow.)

I'm working on the DOF kits for the Orca DeLuxes and the Dungeness Maxs, but will then do the bamboo Orcas which I have in the system, and which sound so amazingly good that I am extremely reluctant to change -- other than the DOF upgrades.)

I'm sure that once the Baby Benthics show up on the Blumenstein site, more of you will be wanting them. I know that I'm truly looking forward to my pair.

-- Jim
 
Jim,

I'm interested in your opinion of the new Baby Benthic subs. I'm running my Orcas with a Yamaha sub right now and it sounds good, but I know that I can do better. I'm limited by the WAF requirements, so  I need to find something that fits into the room.

I purchased the DOF kit, but have not installed it yet. I just need to find the time and take to do it, because it looks like it with take some time to get it done.

I purchase the IsoAcoustics stands on sale, and I must say that I'm very pleased with the improvement in imaging, separation of individuals and instruments, and the added air. Because of this I'm not in a rush to install the DOF kit, I think the stands made that much of an improvement. My wife is not a fan of the look, but I don't think they look bad. She must love me, because I'm able to keep them.
 
Hey Brad,

If I were you, I'd still take the time to install the DOF kit -- it really addresses some other issues aside from what you mention the stands do. I can't speak from experience yet, but after several chats with Clark, I believe it's a no-brainer. The hardest part is removing the  old  binding posts, and if you have the right tools, it isn't that bad. I've just had too much on my plate and was in the hospital again last week, but installing the squishy balls, the new binding posts, and the driver should be no big deal -- just have to take your time and be careful with the driver installation -- think of torquing down the driver as if it were a cylinder head -- follow a blanced sequence and only a tiny bit at a time, and use a feeler gauge to know when it is evenly tightened down. I have a very low torque wrench that goes  down to  inch-ounces, and I'll probably use that when the time comes.

I think the Babys are the same basic size as the Orca, just an inch or so wider, so same basic WAF, and can easily sit on a small platform near the Orca stand.

I can't say much more than that as I don't have mine yet, but after talking with Clark, it was clear that these are exactly what I need to finish my system. I believe they are 4 ohms, so you'll either need two plate amps in boxes, or if you want to run mono, an amp that can handle a 2-ohm load if you want to run them in parallel, which is my personal preference, though I'll be running these stereo with one amp per side.

Take care, and good to hear from you again,

Jim
 
Jim,

I plan on doing the DOF install, it is just a matter of finding the time, with projects around the house and going away with the family. It does not look like I will be able to get to it for a little while, as my Eros is on the way and I want to get my vinyl back online. Hopefully my wife will not have anymore painting projects for me in the near future, so I can catch up and get the speakers done and hear how they sound. Based on the feedback it should be really nice upgrade.

Brad
 
I'm considering replacing my Klipsch Forte IIs with Orcase, mainly because of space. To be able to put the speakers on a wall where I will have built-in bookcases will make a huge difference in my living room's layout.

I'm worried that the Orcas, however, will not offer the same volume as the Klipsch. I'm using a Stereomour II. Currently I can turn LPs all the way up and will want more. Will the Orcas be quieter?

Obviously bass won't be the same. Ideally I would add a Benthic Bass Unit, though I can't afford that. Indeed, I would need to sell my Klipsch to afford the Orcas. But I figure I could always add the Benthic.

Thoughts? The room is fiarly big (tall ceilings) and open.
 
The Klipsch is spec'd at 11dB more sensitive than the Fostex FE83. Those numbers are not easily compared because they don't include directivity - the Orca will put proportionately more energy into the reverberant field for the same on-axis SPL. That might account for 3dB, which still leaves an 8dB difference.

There's more to music than just loudness, though.  :^)
 
denti alligator said:
I'm considering replacing my Klipsch Forte IIs with Orcase, mainly because of space. To be able to put the speakers on a wall where I will have built-in bookcases will make a huge difference in my living room's layout.

I'm worried that the Orcas, however, will not offer the same volume as the Klipsch. I'm using a Stereomour II. Currently I can turn LPs all the way up and will want more. Will the Orcas be quieter?

Obviously bass won't be the same. Ideally I would add a Benthic Bass Unit, though I can't afford that. Indeed, I would need to sell my Klipsch to afford the Orcas. But I figure I could always add the Benthic.

Thoughts? The room is fiarly big (tall ceilings) and open.

The Orca's wont play quite as loud since they are a bit less sensitive then your current speakers. Since you already have to turn the Stereomour up all the way you might benefit from a little extra gain in your signal path. The least expensive way to do this is to add a Quickie in-between the Seduction and the Stereomour. This was discussed recently in another thread. 
 
Well, I have a Quickie. Not in the chain right now.

I wonder how I'll feel about bass without subs. And then, when I can afford one, will one be enough?
 
What does your source put out for signal level? If you're already clipping the input of the Stereomour, clipping it more with a Quickie may not help.
 
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