[Australia] Tools for Crack & Speedball for a beginner

F

FairDinkum

New member
G'day fellow Oceanians! I'm really excited about placing my order for the Crack & Speedball but also sh*tting myself over the DIY bit. I'm starting this topic because I'd like to get the tools necessary for the job and which I could either source locally (Sydney) or ebay it. I'd really appreciate hearing your recommendations on what to get for the following items because I'm totally inexperienced and I don't want to make any mistake if I can help it. Nothing beats screwing up (and having to wait for parts to be shipped all the way from the US) just because I got the wrong tools.

(1) Soldering station (Hakko?)
(2) Solder (which type & gauge?)
(3) Digital multimeter - Bunnings?
(4) Wire strippers/cutters - Jaycar or Bunnings?
(5) Small needle nosed pliers & cutting pliers - Bunnings?
(6) Alligator clip jumpers - Jaycar?
(7) Solder wick
(8) Third hand - ebay

Please feel free to suggest any other tools that are necessary. Thanks very much for helping a fellow audiophile out! I'll be sure to return the karma to a future beginner!
 
Under the Tech Tools folder there is a sticky with a tool list.  It gives both necessary tools for a first build and some suggestions to those who follow the hobby.

http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,173.0.html
 
There are a couple of other Aussies here.  If you are lucky one will be in Sidney.  But you and I know the chances are low that 2 out of three Australians here are from Sidney Sydney.
 
Maybe I'll share updates on what I've found so far. Perhaps other Aussies from 'Sidney' might find it useful.  :)

First up, soldering station. You can buy the cheap Hakko knockoffs from hobbyking but according to eevblog (founded by an Aussie from Sydney), these ones are not ESD safe. In the end, I have to decide between the Hakko FX-888D or the Weller WESD51. They're both expensive here in Australia (Weller more so than the Hakko), but importing from the States and buying a 110v step down transformer is cheaper than buying locally. If you opt for a locally sourced Hakko, Mektronics sell them for AUD$170 ex GST.

Btw, eevblog has youtube videos on how to solder. It also has a video on multimeters for beginners. Pretty useful.
 
I have a few observations to share.

The Hakko FX-888D is an excellent soldering station.  The temp. adjustment is a little funny, but easily done after a little learning the logic.  The chisel tip that is supplied is a little large for smaller PCB work, it would be worth buying a pencil tip for the speedball work.

A good pair of needle nose pliers with smooth surface jaws, and spring assisted opening is a worthy purchase.

Automatic wire strippers are worth their weight in gold.  I have always hated stripping wire, but I recently purchased a pair of Irwin 2078300 self adjusting strippers and they save a lot of extra work.  The small teflon wire in the speedball kit still required manual stripping, but no big deal.

I have always liked the smaller dispensing packs of solder, they keep things tidy and avoid having to manipulate a large roll around your work.
 
Locking medical forceps work well for holding tricky to solder components in place and can also double as heat sinks to protect more vulnerable parts during soldering. Cheep as chips on flee bay
 
I'm using the Extech EX330 auto-ranging DMM.  It relatively inexpensive, nice large display, and a pretty sturdy piece of kit.
 
A great place for tools is "Rhino Tools" www.rhinotools.com.au .You can buy online,they are good prices and better than what you'll find at Jaycar or Bunnings. I've bought a lot of tools over the years from them and never been disappointed.If you need some local advice,send me a message. I've built a few things over the years including 2UE and 3AW . :) though they took a bit longer than your average kit.
 
Big Al 954 said:
A great place for tools is "Rhino Tools" www.rhinotools.com.au .You can buy online,they are good prices and better than what you'll find at Jaycar or Bunnings. I've bought a lot of tools over the years from them and never been disappointed.If you need some local advice,send me a message. I've built a few things over the years including 2UE and 3AW . :) though they took a bit longer than your average kit.
Click to expand...

That's a great suggestion. Ta!

Ok just to update this thread for completeness...I have now collected probably all the essential things I need to build the Crack & Speedball. Here's a summary:

Irwin wire stripper - from Bunnings
Hakko FX-888D - bought the 110v version from ebay and then paid $30 for a step down transformer
Used Fluke 87v - ebay from the US. Great price actually.
ESD mat + Hakko D24 tip - from element 14
Cardas Quad Eutectic solder - from ebay
De-solder, side cutting and long nose plier, de-soldering sucker - from dw online.
Third Hand - ebay
ESD safe tweezer - ebay
Hands-free magnifier and light - ebay

That's about it I think. :)

Received USPS email saying that the Crack is due to be shipped soon. :D
Thermostat clamp - Jaycar
 
By the way, the assembly for the base works perfectly if you line up the edges (top edges) against a straight backsplash.  I arrange all the pieces as shown with the relief toward the back of my kitchen counter.  Make sure each is edge to edge and apply the first 3 strips of tape. 

Then flip them over apply/spread the wood glue and roll them into a box.  One more piece of tape and it sets perfectly square.
 
Hey guys

Just a tip, I bought a Hakko FX888D from ebay for about $125 which is 240v version on ebay.

Not as cheap as you can buy them for in the US, but a lot cheaper than you can buy it for in Australia and no need to get a step-down.
 
sparggy said:
Just a tip, I bought a Hakko FX888D from ebay for about $125 which is 240v version on ebay.
Not as cheap as you can buy them for in the US, but a lot cheaper than you can buy it for in Australia and no need to get a step-down.
Click to expand...

Be careful though, as there a lot of fakes out there, especially 240V versions.
 
Thanks Chris

Yeah I made sure I bought from a reputable seller, can confirm the one I got is genuine Hakko, and has served me very well so far.
 
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