A Moreplay Build thread

[ALL212]

Here we go...
As way of introduction my first Bottlehead was a Crack done about a decade ago as a Christmas gift from my wife. And I might be off by a couple of years...
Since then I've run through 3 more Crack builds, a Stereomore, SEX, both of those battery powered kits, Crack-a-2a, Mainline, Reduction and Eros... and I might be missing one or two...
I have sold off a few but have 2 Crack's here (the BAC and the C4), the Crack-a-2a, the Mainline, SEX and Stereomore (converted to 45's) and the Eros. Since the Moreplay came out I've been waiting for the upgrade kit and a sale... and time. Recent Grandchildren have complicated the time issue but I'll figure that out.

I've not ever ended up with a stock build. This one won't be different but I'll be pulling most of the upgrades out of "stock".
One stock item was a passive pre I built with a Goldpoint selector and Cardas CTFA RCA inputs to be repurposed for the Moreplay.

I found a "trick" while attempting install of the sockets and the pair of strips. I found that a simple Q-tip can be used to hold the first nut in place to tighten it by just jamming it towards the strip side and if you pull most of the cotton off of the other end you can use it to install the 2nd nut by sticking that end of the Q-tip into the nut to hold it and get it into place. As you tighten the screw it will back the Q-tip out.

I also have in my arsenal a nut installer. Not much more than a plastic tube that can hold the nut while putting it in place. Not sure where to get those but it sure makes life easier.


Getting paint on the plate is a bit of a challenge this time of year. I live in Rockford, IL - north central IL, just shy of the chedder curtain. It's a bit nippy... I use one of those oil filled heaters to warm the plate up (and the other parts I've painted) and then once painted to put some heat back in it to cure/dry it. I tend to rush this part... no patience. But it went well. Black and Copper crackle paint. I like the finish and this isn't the first kit to get this color scheme.



Stopping here for today. Might be a day or two before more progress is made. I think it's the Mainline base I'm using as a build box until I get a base built. I don't want to use the provided base but will use it as a template.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

That's coming together nicely, and it's good to see you back! Do keep in mind that you want a 5K-10K volume control for the Moreplay, so be sure not to repurpose something that's a higher impedance than that.

Is that the Rustoleum hammered black? I don't think I've ever used that before.

 

[ALL212]

I’ll use the upgrade kit volume and balance pots and thanks for the reminder - I’ve done last minute hurried upgrades in the past and sometimes forgot to check specs!

I do use Hammered , not crackled.

Interesting… can’t insert a picture of the rattle cans but I can attach the jpg.

Anyway, I use the gloss black on the transformer.

 

[ALL212]

Had time today but have to stop here as the new film caps haven't arrived yet.


I like the cloth covered wire - it's got additional insulation under the cloth wrap.


Volts checked good so far. I had the 220uf's in stock and picked up some Rubycons for the 470uf.

Was kinda "wiggly" in there so I used some foam and wire ties - they're like a rock now.

 

[Jameson]

Mod note: I moved the discussion around wire to a new thread, which you can find here, to maintain Aaron's build thread.

 

[ALL212]

Whoa!!!

I have a 3 position 2 pole selector. I’ve stopped before slinging solder further.

I can get a 3 position 4 pole, just a delay in production here and I’m in no hurry.

What evil will befall me if I common ground the negative connections of the input lines on the switching side?

If this is a “what the heck have fun” I may proceed.

If this is a bad idea (noise level?) I will get the proper part or use the supplied switch.

Thanks!

 

[Jameson]

Did we send you the wrong part? Hit us up and we can fix that for you.

 

[ALL212]

Did we send you the wrong part? Hit us up and we can fix that for you.

No, I’ve a goldpoint in my stock and didn’t look closely at it.

No damage done, no parts wrong or missing,

Tinkerer at the helm.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

What evil will befall me if I common ground the negative connections of the input lines on the switching side?

You'll have a tube preamp like 99.95% of the rest of them on the market. It's technically better to switch both hot and ground, but it's also somewhat uncommon to see that done.

-PB

 

[ALL212]

You'll have a tube preamp like 99.95% of the rest of them on the market. It's technically better to switch both hot and ground, but it's also somewhat uncommon to see that done.

-PB

Rather than spend more I’ll common ground.

But now I’m looking at that small ground lug and I am also going to use some Mogami 2534 ( like in almost all my other builds) and the shield on that is big (x5).

So I dug into my parts. That’s a solid copper rod and soldered on both ends. And I’ve filled the screwed down end down to accommodate the upgrade volume/balance plate.

 

[ALL212]

Upgrade caps are ClarityCap.

CSA ‘s for output caps (fit is near perfect) and a PX on the power board.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Only the shield wires for the input wiring go to the chassis. You do not want to run all the signal ground wires to the chassis, that will end up creating problems with the build.

If you need a dedicated ground point, I'd buy a two lug terminal strip and use the isolated terminal for your signal ground and the common/chassis terminal for shield connections.

-PB

 

[ALL212]

1 chassis ground - as supplied.

1 common ground but not chassis for input signal gnds at switch.

Anyone need snow? Come and get it..,

 

[ALL212]

4, 5 and 6 are not connected to anything. I could put signal ground on those and just short them to each other,

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Yes, you could put some arches of bus wire between the unused terminals to give you some easy places to land the incoming signal ground wires.

 

[ALL212]

I like mogami wire but cat5 is so much easier.

All wire is stranded so tinning is required on all. Seems they only have 2 colors so you have to use an ohm meter to establish pairs.

But I like it!!!




Blues on top to make the bussing easier.
The yellow wire tie is only there to keep wires from getting between plate and box.

 

[Jameson]

1 chassis ground - as supplied.

1 common ground but not chassis for input signal gnds at switch.

Anyone need snow? Come and get it..,

View attachment 34849

If I recall correctly, my family just moved not too far from where you live. Apple Weather said we’d get half an inch, my barber said we’d get four. If only my barber had a weather app.

 

[ALL212]

I think we have a total of a bit over 12” now.

I like it

 

[ALL212]

I am attempting to stream in the upgrade board - I know the rules.
So far voltage checks good.
I have input volts of 121v and my B+ at 21 and 23 output is 329 - a bit high.

Page 25 of the upgrade manual - low voltage check. Low volts check good and heaters heat.
I noticed the note to check 21 to chassis.
I have 329V between 21 and chassis.

I've stopped.

21 and 23 are just floating right now. I did not attach to the upgrade board.
I've not installed the Claymore yet.

I went back through and rechecked all of my power supply and transformer connections. I can't find anything wrong here.

In my case of just leaving 21 and 23 floating...should I expect 329v between 21 and chassis?

Any suggestions would be very appreciated.

I'm wiring transformer for the 110 to 130v settings.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I don't see anything concerning with what you've posted (other than not building the kit stock of course).