1st time DIYer - tales of my build - questions in 1st post
- Thread starter wullymc
- Start date
Tried soldering together a traffic light kit.
It unfortunately didn't work.
I atleast practiced my soldering skills or lack thereof. I used all 3 tips to my soldering iron. I think I may have damaged the board and that is the reason. I don't know...they didn't provide testing guidelines.
Next up : the cmoy. I received the kit but not all the components were there. I need to wait longer.
Also, I have found .032 to be easier to use than .040 for pcb boards.
I don't believe there is any boards to solder to for the Crack kit. I wonder for the Speedball kit how much soldering on the boards is required. Can anyone let me know.
Thanks...Dave
It unfortunately didn't work.
I atleast practiced my soldering skills or lack thereof. I used all 3 tips to my soldering iron. I think I may have damaged the board and that is the reason. I don't know...they didn't provide testing guidelines.Next up : the cmoy. I received the kit but not all the components were there. I need to wait longer.
Also, I have found .032 to be easier to use than .040 for pcb boards.
I don't believe there is any boards to solder to for the Crack kit. I wonder for the Speedball kit how much soldering on the boards is required. Can anyone let me know.
Thanks...Dave
Grainger49
New member
Dave,
Are 0.032 and 0.040 solder or soldering iron tips? Just curious.
Look at the product page for the Speedball kit. Each component is at least two solder points.
Are 0.032 and 0.040 solder or soldering iron tips? Just curious.
Look at the product page for the Speedball kit. Each component is at least two solder points.
Well, I finished the CMOY today.
It didn't work....I looked at a tutorial on youtube about how to use a multimeter and was able to use the continuity(?) function to check my solder. I found one bad one and with the poor instructions also found that I had soldered the power + in the wrong location.
Fixed these and it worked!......once . I tried it the first time with cheap headphones then turned it off to get my good headphones. Then powered it up and I didn't get any sound. Next I hooked up the amp to my computer and was able to get a little bit of sound with static. I will have to hunt around to find out what could cause this.
...but I was so happy to get the LED to light up!! ..yeah I know amature! I must admit I was frustrated and wondered what did I do ordering a Crack...I can't even do a CMOY ....but I am relieved now. I am sure the instructions will be better with the Crack.
Take care...Dave
It didn't work....I looked at a tutorial on youtube about how to use a multimeter and was able to use the continuity(?) function to check my solder. I found one bad one and with the poor instructions also found that I had soldered the power + in the wrong location.
Fixed these and it worked!......once
. I tried it the first time with cheap headphones then turned it off to get my good headphones. Then powered it up and I didn't get any sound. Next I hooked up the amp to my computer and was able to get a little bit of sound with static. I will have to hunt around to find out what could cause this....but I was so happy to get the LED to light up!! ..yeah I know amature! I must admit I was frustrated and wondered what did I do ordering a Crack...I can't even do a CMOY ....but I am relieved now. I am sure the instructions will be better with the Crack.
Take care...Dave
Dave, the instructions that come with Crack are excellent. Just make sure to check any corrections to the instructions that are in the sticky thread on top of this forum page. You are working with a good deal more room under the Crack chassis. Im not a techie like a lot of the folks here but I am competent with an iron and have built quite a few kits over the years, plus, somehow, been able to fix a few older pieces. The Crack is an excellent first timers kit. I think you are making it even less challenging by practicing your soldering before building. A couple of the terminal strips get a little crowded but if you take your time, double check the instructions and the pictures, watch your capacitor and diode (includes the little led's) orientation and I think you'll find that it's an easy build. You'll be fine, I think you'll find it much easier than you are expecting it to be.
Hello and welcome to a fascinating hobby,
This group is great as you may already realize. Just to toss my 02 cents in, the key, IMHO, to is two fold:
1) read and understand the instructions- as pointed out by several very experienced Bottleheads the Bottlehead instruction CD's are second to none.
2) I've been a member for over ten years and the overwhelming majority of issues I've seen with building these kits is two fold: correctly orienting parts and then soldering them well. A number of solder joints can appear to be good but be a problem when tested. Just do some soldering on any spare parts and soon you will develop an eye and feel for what is right. The stock Crack kit doesn't have any PCB's which makes it somewhat easier. Good flow and a rather shiny look to the completed solder joint are what I look for. Be careful not to over do it especially with PCB's as the trace's can be damaged, but again the stock Crack won't be an issue there. AND remember you have the support of this tremendous group should anything go awry.
Best of luck,
John
This group is great as you may already realize. Just to toss my 02 cents in, the key, IMHO, to is two fold:
1) read and understand the instructions- as pointed out by several very experienced Bottleheads the Bottlehead instruction CD's are second to none.
2) I've been a member for over ten years and the overwhelming majority of issues I've seen with building these kits is two fold: correctly orienting parts and then soldering them well. A number of solder joints can appear to be good but be a problem when tested. Just do some soldering on any spare parts and soon you will develop an eye and feel for what is right. The stock Crack kit doesn't have any PCB's which makes it somewhat easier. Good flow and a rather shiny look to the completed solder joint are what I look for. Be careful not to over do it especially with PCB's as the trace's can be damaged, but again the stock Crack won't be an issue there. AND remember you have the support of this tremendous group should anything go awry.
Best of luck,
John
I got my Crack yesterday!!! Yay!
Okay, first impressions of Customer Service. Great! Phoned 2 weeks ago and talked with Doc about my order and he was very nice and told me mine would be out in the next run.
When I opened the package everything was well wrapped and laid out. The order form was there with a personalized Thank you. Nice touch. Oh yeah I shouldn't forget the chocolates (3 kisses). My wife enjoyed those!
Printed the manual and started to get to work. Even though I want to listen to it I want to go slow and make sure I do a good job. Hopefully, this will avoid problems later!
The build is broken down into 3 parts. 1st part is securing the main components in order to start working on the wiring. 2nd part is laying out the wiring and soldering. 3rd is soldering in capacitors, transistors, etc.
3 manual is excellently laid out with very good details. As I have stated I am definitely a level 1 builder, very novice but was able to get it done. Now I have the top panel with all the parts attached. Next the wiring! I plan on doing 3 pages a day.
Stay tuned and thanks for reading!....
Okay, first impressions of Customer Service. Great! Phoned 2 weeks ago and talked with Doc about my order and he was very nice and told me mine would be out in the next run.
When I opened the package everything was well wrapped and laid out. The order form was there with a personalized Thank you. Nice touch. Oh yeah I shouldn't forget the chocolates (3 kisses). My wife enjoyed those!
Printed the manual and started to get to work. Even though I want to listen to it I want to go slow and make sure I do a good job. Hopefully, this will avoid problems later!
The build is broken down into 3 parts. 1st part is securing the main components in order to start working on the wiring. 2nd part is laying out the wiring and soldering. 3rd is soldering in capacitors, transistors, etc.
3 manual is excellently laid out with very good details. As I have stated I am definitely a level 1 builder, very novice but was able to get it done. Now I have the top panel with all the parts attached. Next the wiring! I plan on doing 3 pages a day.
Stay tuned and thanks for reading!....
Finally, the wait is over. Good to hear you've got your kit. I've always been impatient when it comes to waiting for things, that hasnt changed much with age 
I have a bad neck so I, pretty much out of necessity, take my time on the builds. Sounds like you have a good plan. Be sure to check near the top of this forum page for a sticky with any corrections to the manual and make notes. Im not positive but I think there are a couple for Crack.
Ive always glued up the wood base first and done the sanding and staining. Plus, painting the transformer bell cap. Then I work on any finish (tung oil, poly or whatever) while doing the build. Im not saying this is the way to do it, I just like the base ready to go when the amp is and the transfomer cap's paint good and dry. Im lousy with schematics but good at following directions and those included with the Bottlehead kits couldnt be much better. I've been competent with a soldering iron for a good while which is a plus. But it's not rocket science, follow the soldering basics and Bottleheads directions for making a good wire/lead to terminal connection before you solder and you'll be fine. One thing that isnt in the manual ... not necessary but I like to give the solder terminals on the tube sockets a quick wipe with some alcohol or cleaner that doesnt leave a residue. I have had a few terminals in the past that didnt like to take the solder. Probably left over oil or residue during manufacture. Again, not necessary but cant hurt, or just keep in mind if you run into one where the solder doesnt seem to want to "stick".
Enjoy the process! Im sure it will go fine and you'll have it running in no time.
I have a bad neck so I, pretty much out of necessity, take my time on the builds. Sounds like you have a good plan. Be sure to check near the top of this forum page for a sticky with any corrections to the manual and make notes. Im not positive but I think there are a couple for Crack.
Ive always glued up the wood base first and done the sanding and staining. Plus, painting the transformer bell cap. Then I work on any finish (tung oil, poly or whatever) while doing the build. Im not saying this is the way to do it, I just like the base ready to go when the amp is and the transfomer cap's paint good and dry. Im lousy with schematics but good at following directions and those included with the Bottlehead kits couldnt be much better. I've been competent with a soldering iron for a good while which is a plus. But it's not rocket science, follow the soldering basics and Bottleheads directions for making a good wire/lead to terminal connection before you solder and you'll be fine. One thing that isnt in the manual ... not necessary but I like to give the solder terminals on the tube sockets a quick wipe with some alcohol or cleaner that doesnt leave a residue. I have had a few terminals in the past that didnt like to take the solder. Probably left over oil or residue during manufacture. Again, not necessary but cant hurt, or just keep in mind if you run into one where the solder doesnt seem to want to "stick".
Enjoy the process! Im sure it will go fine and you'll have it running in no time.
Great news! Can't wait to hear the rest of your build story. Maybe when you're done we can get together so I can hear it??? (Hint, hint! ;D ) I'll even bring some beverages...
Did you have any issues with customs on the kit? It seems to be hit and miss as to when charges are levied these days.
SteveH (in Kanata)
Did you have any issues with customs on the kit? It seems to be hit and miss as to when charges are levied these days.
SteveH (in Kanata)
thanks everyone for the kind words of encouragement.
SteveH, for sure we'll get together and you can hear it. As for customs it wasn't bad. I ended up paying $45.77 in total. $8.50 was a handling fee (I guess an inspection fee) and the rest was 13% HST. It came via USPS so no big brokerage fees!
SteveH, for sure we'll get together and you can hear it. As for customs it wasn't bad. I ended up paying $45.77 in total. $8.50 was a handling fee (I guess an inspection fee) and the rest was 13% HST. It came via USPS so no big brokerage fees!
Dave;
I got your message today so I will be getting back to you shortly. Glad everything came through ok, $45.00 sounds about right for most of what I have been bringing in. USPS to Canada Post seems to be the best way to go and when you are importing a "kit" the duties are usually minimal.
Debra;
It looks like we might have the beginnings of Borders area Bottlehead Fan group!!! I've been in Watertown quite often in the past.
Cheers;
Mike
I got your message today so I will be getting back to you shortly. Glad everything came through ok, $45.00 sounds about right for most of what I have been bringing in. USPS to Canada Post seems to be the best way to go and when you are importing a "kit" the duties are usually minimal.
Debra;
It looks like we might have the beginnings of Borders area Bottlehead Fan group!!! I've been in Watertown quite often in the past.
Cheers;
Mike
.I think everything is going well so far!
I have probably read the manual about 10 times now. I have been working on about 3 pages a night. AT this rate I should be finished by the weekend! Then the scary part ....testing voltages!!!
So far things have been going well. The manual is excellent. If I don't really get what I am reading or am wondering all I have to do is look to the accompanying photo beside it! ....maybe I shouldn't be saying too much...don't want to jinx it!
I have finished staining the wood. I just used Varathane Diamond showing the natural alder. I also have placed the Bottlehead badge on. The instructions for the assembly of the wood case are excellent. I would have never thought to tape the pieces and flip them and glue. I would have done them one at a time while trying to figure out how to hold them together while cursing!
The hardest part so far for me has been the connection and soldering of the inboard terminal of the potentiometer closest to the chassis plate. it was really a tight fit for my soldering iron. I am afraid that I burnt part of a sleeve of another wire but no exposed wire is showing!...opppps
Also, I have noticed that on page 18 it says to attach but do not solder to B7L and B8L but cannot find anywhere later in the manual that these spots should be soldered. Is that correct?
thanks for reading!...stay tuned ....now onto the leds....at page 23!
I have probably read the manual about 10 times now. I have been working on about 3 pages a night. AT this rate I should be finished by the weekend! Then the scary part ....testing voltages!!!
So far things have been going well. The manual is excellent. If I don't really get what I am reading or am wondering all I have to do is look to the accompanying photo beside it! ....maybe I shouldn't be saying too much...don't want to jinx it!
I have finished staining the wood. I just used Varathane Diamond showing the natural alder. I also have placed the Bottlehead badge on. The instructions for the assembly of the wood case are excellent. I would have never thought to tape the pieces and flip them and glue. I would have done them one at a time while trying to figure out how to hold them together while cursing!
The hardest part so far for me has been the connection and soldering of the inboard terminal of the potentiometer closest to the chassis plate. it was really a tight fit for my soldering iron. I am afraid that I burnt part of a sleeve of another wire but no exposed wire is showing!...opppps
Also, I have noticed that on page 18 it says to attach but do not solder to B7L and B8L but cannot find anywhere later in the manual that these spots should be soldered. Is that correct?
thanks for reading!...stay tuned ....now onto the leds....at page 23!
fullheadofnothing
Moderator
B7L & B8L should get soldered. You are correct that they don't pop up again in the manual. I'll add these terminals to my list of needed revisions.
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