16 - 18V tap on Stereomour Transformer

OK, I am going to order the power supply and shield it. - I also think it might make sense if I want to move the Goldpoint to my next pre-amp (when I build the Paramounts).  Ok this is probably a stupid question, but if I build the Paramounts, can I convert the Stereomour to act a s a pre-amp?  Man there is so much I do not know about this stuff.  Glad you guys are so helpful.

drew.
 
In response to question about your stereomour as a preamp.  Some people go Bi-amp. One amp for mids/treble and another amp for base. Each amp has their own speakers. I don't know anything about this solution or the inherent problems. Since you already have two amps this may be a nice solution. Some people who go the Bi-amp route use open baffle speaker designs for both the bass amp and the mids/treble amp. They can get away with an open baffle design for the bass speakers because they can use very large sensitive 12"-18" woofers because they don't have to worry about anything but the bass frequencies. This design gives you independant control over the bass frequencies and the mid/treble frequencies. Open baffle speaker designs my present a more natural acoustic sound as the box that defines it is the room not the speaker cabinet. I think Bi-amps have a flow chart as follows. Others can chime in if I am wrong or give more details.

                                      / power amp-filter-only bass frequencies to woofers
2 output music source                                   
                                    / power amp-filter-only mid/treble frequencies to drivers


                                                                                / power amp- filter - only bass frequencies passed to woofers
1 output music source-line amp ( BeePre or other)
                                                                                / power amp- filter- only mid/treble frequencies passed to drivers
 
Back to the tube filament wiring issue... My confusion with the filament current arose because of my ignorance of the difference in wiring between 6.3V and 12.6V. I always thought that the filaments were wired in series, using pin 4 for one connection and pin 5 for the other. I thought pin 9 was optional. Thus, my reasoning was that if I put 12.6V across pins 4 and 5 I will get twice as much current when compared to 6.3V across pins 4 and 5. After some research, I have discovered my mistake. The worst part is I now realize that I have miss-wired an earlier project, using a 6.3V supply for a series wiring of the heater, which will only give 75mA of heater current. The funny thing is that the 12AX7 worked in this configuration. I will have to go back and correct my mistake. The reason I am relating all of this is so that others who are new to tubes will learn from my mistake. Please confirm the attached diagram. Also, I believe that the 12.6V heater ground connection is optional.
 

Attachments

  • Slide1.jpg
    Slide1.jpg
    32 KB · Views: 120
rlyach said:
Also, I believe that the 12.6V heater ground connection is optional.

Yeah, usually you will see the AC winding center tap grounded or biased up if heather/cathode insulation ratings are an issue, it's actually fairly uncommon to see the arrangement in the Steremour. 
 
Drew,

Now that I have everything straight... I re-ran my simulation using the proper filament model. I also updated the transformer model to match Paul's unloaded performance. The results are a little more encouraging. The unloaded output voltage is 16.4V and the loaded case is 14.4V. This might have a chance at actually working. The only question that still remains is the state of the ground connection within the stepper motor. Bent Audio should be able to answer this question. If the motor is capable of floating you might want to give this a try.
 

Attachments

  • Stepper Motor PS.jpg
    Stepper Motor PS.jpg
    64.7 KB · Views: 122
that's great to hear, thanks Randy - You have been really helpful.  I really like that site you did your simulation on. That will be very helpful to me as I learn more.

I'll double check with John Chapman at Bent Audio on the stepper motor, he has been very responsive. I'll have the unit next week and keep you posted. There might be other couch potatoes out there that want to integrate a remote volume control.

Also putting any speaker build plans on hold, things are starting to sound really good, bass is improving and Roy at Green Mountain Audio is sending me some updated Xover's to try out in my speakers.


 
Drew,

I know this is not optimal, but I handle the "remote" issue by using iTunes to send digital data to my DAC. I leave the Stereomour volume all the way up and use iTunes to control the volume. iTunes scales the data to reduce the volume. I know this introduces scaling errors, but for most of my listening it works well. When I want to listen critically I set iTunes to full scale and use the step attenuator to control the volume. With this setup I can use my iPhone, iPod or computer to play music and I always have a "remote" with me that controls song selection and volume. Good luck with the Bent Audio control.
 
With respect to grounding the center tap ... it is optional with respect to making the cathode hot enough to emit electrons, but the Stereomour has other functions that glowing ...  :^)  in this case, the 12.6 volt winding in the transformer also serves as an electrostatic shield to prevent power line noise from affecting the 2A3 filaments. To do this, the winding must be grounded, and for it to couple as little as possible itself to adjacent windings it should be a center tap ground. The winding itself does not have a center tap since it's just one layer of wire, so the CT on the 12AT7 filament provides a convenient place to do it.
 
Back
Top