Upgrade Capacitors

[rockpassion]

Hello All,

I replaced the 10uf coupling capacitors with the Russian Teflon FT3 Capacitors.  While they are not nearly broken in I have noticed a major improvement in the bass, it is now much deeper and more powerful.  The next thing is clarity in the soundstage.  I can really hear instruments more distinctly and clearer placement.  Plus, there is just an overall smoothness I did not have before.  The highs have mellowed a little (which is good in my system) but they are still real nice.

All in all, given input by others these might take up to 400 hours to break in.  Should be a fun journey. 

Richard

 

[cktc]

I don't see Russian Teflon FT3 has 10uf big values? are you using small value like 0.1uf to bypass the original 10uf?

 

[Chris65]

I don't see Russian Teflon FT3 has 10uf big values?

They don't, well not that I've seen. Generally available are 0.1, 0.22 & 0.47uF values.

 

[rockpassion]

Gentlemen,

You are right, the capacitors are K75-10V, PIO.  Sorry about that.  The FT3's were put in my Eros. 

Even these I believe are much better than the stock Capacitors.  The big issue is the size.  They are about 3 inches long and about 1.5 inches in diameter.  The fit but just barely. 

Richard

 

[aroide]

I had upgraded my caps with Claritycap MR 10uf and have been happy with the sound for a few years.  But Icant leave well enough alone.

I had 4 Mundorf Supreme silver/gold/oil 2.7uF caps I intended for my Rogue Atlas Magnum amp, but they won't fit.  So I put 2 in my quickie preamp (effectively tripling the cost of the quickie) in the bedroom and WOW what a change.

I just replaced the Claritycaps in my Bee Pre with the Mundorfs and after 75 hours or so of breaking so far, they are taking my sound to another level of imaging and 'booginess'.  I'm sitting here listening to Elton John on vinyl and can't stop moving.  At 20 hours they sounded horrible like a really cheap cartridge.  I'm guessing I need 150 hrs or so to be considered fully settled in.

Question on the value of 2.7uF vs original 10uF... I've read in other threads that this value should be fine for coupling.  But should I be concerned about anything? Rogue has 1Mohm input impedance.

 

[oltmb]

There is an online calculator on the V-Cap website that helps you to determine the right capacitance for your system. Very useful.

 

[oltmb]

I purchased the Mundorf Supreme Silver Gold 3.3 uF and when they arrived they looked too big to mount them. So I decided to put them on eBay, but there were no buyers and they were lying on my desk and I decided to give it a try. I mounted one on the orginal position and the other one was mounted vertical as the BeeQuiet was taking up space. The leads of the Mundorf capacitors are thick and by soldering they would stay in position but I used tie-wraps to fix them.

The sound impression after power-on was noticably better, more open and detailed but I need to have them run in for some time.

 

[Doc B]

If we made a preamp as big as a Volkswagen someone would make a capacitor as big as a Cadillac, and someone else would be determined to put it in the preamp. 

 

[caffeinator]

Something about that (Cadillacs and Volkswagens) reminded me of those old hot rod monster cartoons (see linked image) which inspired my little illustration (a little off the topic of this thread, as it's more headphone-centric than BeePree centric, but so be it).

https://www.google.com/search?q=monster+cartoons+hot+rod+60%27s&tbm=isch&imgil=rnwmkiyzmZU8yM%253A%253BeVIaUyVJnNzblM%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.pinterest.com%25252Fkevinwollershei%25252Fchildhood-bubble-gum-cards%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=rnwmkiyzmZU8yM%253A%252CeVIaUyVJnNzblM%252C_&usg=__GxuHrlAqWN0gGt6lk7L8ClgiSR0%3D&biw=1320&bih=760&ved=0ahUKEwi0mc_LtbPTAhXGy1QKHZHtD6QQyjcIMw&ei=89z4WPTTI8aX0wKR27-gCg#imgrc=rnwmkiyzmZU8yM:

 

[2wo]

That's great, you should have your own badge made...John

 

[Doc B]

t shirts!

 

[binar01]

If we made a preamp as big as a Volkswagen someone would make a capacitor as big as a Cadillac, and someone else would be determined to put it in the preamp. 

Sorry Doc, just had to do it!

As someone said before, these Mundorfs have heavy, stiff leads that make them structural.

In this case to protect the big caps from the heatsinks I zip-tied silicone lids from broken coffee cups to the stick-on tie mounts for the Daytons.

Has worked very well for the last half year.

Now I'm going to try these undersized silver / copper CAST Duelunds as per the vcap calculator (.8 was enough to mate with Kaiju input impedance).

If the bass suffers I can stab them in a phono stage I have that uses 1uF.

 

[kip.duff]

Spending the money on a 1000V cap is not necessarily the best plan, as the price of the capacitor and its size will go up to meet the specifications for the high voltage rating.  When the size gets to be that large, the leads coming out of the cap become unusually large, and you really must find a way to secure the cap against the chassis so that those leads don't snap off under the weight of the cap.

(I personally just put the 10uF Russian caps in mine)

I have some MBGO 10uF 300V PIOs- is this good example of the "Russian caps" you're referring to?  This cap is relatively small- an easy fit.  Better Russian options?  Do you/can you recommend cathode bypass caps for the 300Bs in the BeePre?  I saw you used some Jantzen non-electrolytic Crosscaps as cathode bypass in your Paramounts- I have done the same.  Thanks in advance, Kip......

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I have 10uF/200V MGBO in my BeePre.

Bypass caps in the BeePre need to be 10,000uF, so the choices are pretty limited.  We put the best cap in that was available when we created the BeePre.  Now there is the Nichicon KA cap that's a newer model that might be a hair better, but they seem to go in and out of stock pretty frequently.

 

[kip.duff]

Thanks Paul