Surprise!

Doc B

Former President For Life
Staff member
We cooked up a new kit and kept it a secret until it was done -

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http://www.bottlehead.com/store.php/products/submissive-volumesource-control-kit
 
Dan,

You are due some secrets.  I realize how difficult it is starting a project and getting so many questions and suggestions that it loses shape.

And I admit that I am part of that problem.

Congratulations!
 
Gah!  Don't do this to me! 

I've been thinking about a passive for some time, and now Bottlehead has a sweet non-bottled option!  Who woulda thunkit?
 
If I wasn't so pleased with the way the Bee Quiet sounds I probably wouldn't have done this kit. That attenuator was really quite a 'step up' from anything else we tried. So as long as we could translate it into a lower impedance setup for passive use and not lose what I liked about the sound, it seemed to make sense. It seems to have the same sonic qualities as the Bee Quiet and the switch is very quiet - absolutely no popping or clicking when turning the knobs on the prototype.
 
Would this kit work well with the stereomour? The data on the stereomour says the input impedance is 270k, would the input impedance change much if the 100k pot is replaced by this kit? The stereomour already has a selector switch and 6 inputs so these would have to be taken out and the holes covered.  The holes for the selector switch and the 100k pot could be used for the rca jacks but they would be off center. I would probably but hole covers in these holes and drill two new holes on opposite sides of the hole for the pot.
  How would the BeeQuiet attenuator work in the stereomour? Is there enough room? Since the Stereomour already has a selector switch and 6 input jacks the BeeQuiet attenuator would seem to be a nice alternative if workable.   
 
chard said:
Would this kit work well with the stereomour?

Yes, this is actually part of the rationale for this kit, to make a stepped attenuator available for kits like the SEX amp, Crack, and Stereomour.

The 100K input impedance of the Stereomour will allow the Submissive to drive it with a 1M pair of cables.  On the Stereomour, turn the volume control all the way up, then leave the input selector on one input.

If you wanted to do more, there are 3/8" press-in hole covers available at most hardware stores to cover up the volume pot and input selector switch holes.  If you do this, be sure to add a 100K-475K resistor between T7/T8 and T8/T9.

-PB
 
I have a Firstwatt F5 which needs a new pre-amp.  Would the submissive work well in this application?  Ideally I would use it as the attenuator for both my SEX and F5 amps!
 
I had to download the owner's manual and do some calculating, but it appears the Firstwatt F5 needs 3vRMS for full output. So unless your DAC or phono preamp puts out 5v you need an active preamp with some gain.
 
Hmm, my source is the Halide DAC HD which I think has an output of 4.5v although it's not totally clear on their website.
 
Yes, you can put the Submissive in ahead of Quickie, S.E.X., Stereomour, Crack, etc. You simply install the submissive in the system ahead of the preamp or amp in question, turn the volume control wide open on the amp or preamp - effectively eliminating any series resistance from the internal volume control - and use the Submissive as the volume control instead.
 
Please forgive my ignorance but I have been searching on passive volume attenuator and I just have a question. 

Right now I have a Quickie 1.1 and a Crack.  I have been reading a lot about upgrades to these systems.  Typically they involve upgrading the caps and the volume pots.

My question is instead of installing 2 TDK stepped pots in both the Quickie and Crack would it be better that I just buy a Submissive and not bother doing the pot upgrades in the Quickie and Crack (leaving the pots stock)?  I would really prefer this.

Then my set up would be Phono & DAC & CD    - Submissive - Quickie - Crack

Would this set up work?
...and then I would keep the Quickie and Crack at 100% volume and control the volume using the Submissive.

Thanks...Dave
                                   
 
I will suggest, with your OK, working through the analysis with a methodical approach. Bear with me - what inspired you to put a Quickie ahead of the Crack?
 
Doc B. said:
I will suggest, with your OK, working through the analysis with a methodical approach. Bear with me - what inspired you to put a Quickie ahead of the Crack?

Thanks Doc, Paul.  I put the Quickie ahead of the Crack as mostly for a switching device.  I currently have my Dac and phono preamp as inputs going to the Crack.  I know that I could have used just a switch from Radio Shack but I am having fun building your kits!

I still need to do the Speedball and I think I will upgrade the caps in the Quickie and Crack but instead of upgrading the pots buying the Submissive instead. 

Thanks...Dave
 
I suspect that you would have enough gain with the Submissive connected directly to the Crack, so you might want to try that too. Most builders find the Crack plenty sensitive. And I'm not surprised the Quicke/Submissive combo works well. It should make for sort of a Jr. Bee Pre.
 
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