Speedball interference

[Swollazn]

I finished installing the speedball. And wow the sound fidelity is insane. I just want to just keep upgrading and see what's the next sound. Aside from that, there's some interference. (All voltages good/ resistance pass, LEDs lit)

Adding the first circuit board it sounded great and no interference.

However once I installed the larger board, it sounds great but there's a LOT of electric interference (can hear my mouse moving etc). (constant same volume popping sounds)

I have this hooked up to a Shunyata Research Hydra Model-2 Power Conditioner. It seems to just bypass the conditioner completely when I install the larger board. Does the speedball add a lot more interference in general? And have people just removed the larger circuit board and only used the smaller one?

 

[Swollazn]

Also theres pretty inconsistent behavior, sometimes the interference doesn't happen right away. and unplugging and replugging the RCAs while the unit is on solves the issue (not sure if this is safe for long run)

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I would try this first:
https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=11676.0

 

[Swollazn]

got it. ill order the parts today. is it 2 STTH2R06 wounded connecting IEC inlet and the ground lug?

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Yes.

 

[Swollazn]

Turns out the smaller tube is loose in its socket, is there a way to make it fit more snug?

Also for some reason i can only upload PDFs.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Is it pressed all the way in?  What does the bottom of the socket look like?

 

[Swollazn]

It's pressed all the way, but it rocks left and right. The screw mounts as tight.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

From what I can see in that set of photos, you'd probably find that a set of proper side cutters would help a lot to clean up leads poking out of terminals.  The CHP-170 is affordable and well recommended.

The solder joints on your front Speedball PC board are also not adequately heated, though I would not attempt to reflow the LED solder joints.

 

[Swollazn]

i snipped some off, I think the thing that helped the most was making the wires connecting to the 9-pin more snug so it doesn't have any give for the tube to rock. Not perfect but it's the best I can do.

 

[Swollazn]

Man you learn something everyday, i was adjusting how tight the ground lug was screwed in from the top, loosening made it crystal clean. At first I was adjusting how hard I was pushing down the power cord, but it was the tightness of the ground lug.

This was a frustrating experience but I think I reached the end result.

 

[Swollazn]

I will probably do one more project with removing one part of the speedball to get the volume levels back to where I'd like with the bass. But I appreciate all the help I got, you guys helped me all the way through.

 

[Swollazn]

Actually one question, is the upgraded power cord more snug? I find the power cord needs to be a very exact position to have no interference. I'm not sure why this is but it needs to be perfectly upright.

 

[2wo]

Borrow a  cord from a PC. Printer or something. See if is different...John

 

[Swollazn]

My PC plug is a lot more dense and holds its angle very well. Basically if i angle the power cord towards the fuse side, it starts the interference noise.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

If the cord position is critical, that may indicate a loose connection in the amp that is pulled into contact when the power cord is oriented a specific way.

 

[Swollazn]

Could be. At this point I'm just relieved I'm not hearing background interference.