Speedball Difficulty Level? - Is it worth it?

R

Rhok

New member
Hey all,

I've owned the default configuration Crack for almost 2 years, and I'm looking to make it sound even better, but I'd hate to ruin what I currently have.

My setup is as follows: computer>Wyrd>Modi 2>Crack>HD 650's and I listen to a wide variety of music, as well as play games.

I have decent soldering skills, but completely novice when it comes to understanding electronics and circuits, etc.

My questions are:

1: How difficult is the installation? if I had no real issues with building the default Crack, will I have difficulty issues installing the upgrade?

2: Is the upgrade worth it?

Thanks in advance,

Rhok



Rhok said:
Just wanted to post an update here, I just got my kit in the mail yesterday - was going to wait till the weekend to install it, but I just couldn't resist and built it tonight.

I got it right the first time! (phew!) - I would also state that this was a lot easier than the base build (though maybe that's just me being a lot more comfortable with PCB).

I gotta say, I should have purchased the upgrade kit long ago, it's amazing, the difference was instantly heard.

If anyone else is reading this with a vanilla Crack - buy the upgrade kit it really is an upgrade!

Thanks again everyone!
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_87644.png
    IMG_87644.png
    1.9 MB · Views: 634
The big issues that we see repeated over and over again with Speedball installation are mixing up the R1 resistors (just measure them before you put them in) and not installing the hardware properly between the TIP50 transistors and the heatsinks (we made a video on how to do this).

If you are able to complete these steps properly, your odds of success are very high. 

The upgrade does measurably increase the performance of the amplifier. 
 
Thanks for the input guys,

I'm more comfortable with PCB soldering, as most of the DIY projects I've done has included them, and I used to work in computer repair - but only did basic board level work when parts were obviously problematic - simply replacing them.

That puts a little bit more confidence in getting it done right, and I know this forum is very helpful when it comes to troubleshooting.

Other than what the product description has to say, what would you describe the changes (benefits) from installing the Speedball kit?

Caucasian Blackplate:

If I purchase the upgrade kit - do you guys offer the instructions in a downloadable format? I've rebuilt my computer since last building my Crack and decided against putting in an optical drive this time around.

Rhok
 
I completed the original Crack last week and have been extremely happy with it... I purchased the combined kit and wanted to the do the original complete and then modify to help with trouble shooting if a problem occurred.  I have been so happy with the performance of the un-Speedballed Crack I wasn't sure I would completed the upgrade... but my inner tinkerer took over and I went ahead with the Speedball.

To compare with the original Crack project I would say it is much easier.  Just less to do and there is a reason electronics have gone to PCBs... point to point wiring can create more errors due to the greater impact of "human factors".

Yes it is worth it! 

Frankly I have mixed emotions being done with the project.  It sounds so great but was such a fun build.  I guess when my wallet fills, I will have to graduate to another kit!
 
Just wanted to post an update here, I just got my kit in the mail yesterday - was going to wait till the weekend to install it, but I just couldn't resist and built it tonight.

I got it right the first time! (phew!) - I would also state that this was a lot easier than the base build (though maybe that's just me being a lot more comfortable with PCB).

I gotta say, I should have purchased the upgrade kit long ago, it's amazing, the difference was instantly heard.

If anyone else is reading this with a vanilla Crack - buy the upgrade kit it really is an upgrade!

Thanks again everyone!
 
Strikkflypilot:

Thanks!

Minwax 13407 Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (as directed)

Minwax 22718 Wood Finish Interior Wood Stain, Ebony (1 coat, maximum suggested stain time)

Minwax 60900 Wipe-On Poly Polyurethane Finish Clear Gloss (3 coats, wet sanding with 800 grit between coats)


Tom-s:

PC gaming is one of my main hobbies, when my system is under load (in-game with high CPU/GPU utilization) I was getting a lot EMI, as I was long ago using an internal sound card as my DAC.

I purchased the Modi 2 (non-Uber) thinking that having an external DAC would solve that issue - it reduced the issue a lot - but didn't remove it.

The Wyrd was the last attempt at eliminating it - and it has reduced it to the point where only certain scenarios, if I am extremely picky can I hear some EMI when my system is under load.

So it does measurably help with my intended purpose.
 
tcbaldwin2000 said:
Frankly I have mixed emotions being done with the project.  It sounds so great but was such a fun build.  I guess when my wallet fills, I will have to graduate to another kit!
Click to expand...

Crack is never done. The best custom bang for buck upgrades with good audible results IME are the Schottky rectifier upgrade (15$ better bass) and the Valab attentuator upgrade (25$ matched volume levels and better clarity).

Rhok said:
PC gaming is one of my main hobbies, when my system is under load (in-game with high CPU/GPU utilization) I was getting a lot EMI, as I was long ago using an internal sound card as my DAC.
I purchased the Modi 2 (non-Uber) thinking that having an external DAC would solve that issue - it reduced the issue a lot - but didn't remove it.
The Wyrd was the last attempt at eliminating it - and it has reduced it to the point where only certain scenarios, if I am extremely picky can I hear some EMI when my system is under load.
So it does measurably help with my intended purpose.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply. I'm between a Wyrd to match my Modi or the Uptone Audio Regen.
But some reviews make me think twice: http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread.php?18580-Science-Thread-Review-of-Audioquest-Jitterbug-and-Uptone-Regen-USB-Conditioners
 
I am no expert... but I built my crack and loved it, but felt it wasnt loud enough.  I went ahead with the speedball upgrade, which honestly was SUPER easy and straight forward.  I did the speedball in a couple days with with little free time i had.  I ran into no issues doing it.

IMO if you can do the crack, you can do the speedball no problem.

Now...is it worth it....


Yes. Yes. Yes.

Cant say that enough.  The difference to me was HUGE!  I am running the Modi 2Uber to my crack and using the HD650s as well... Again.. cant believe the difference. 

Do it. Trust me.
 
Peebs and Josh and done a lot of refinement to the assembly manuals over the years to circumvent common assembly errors. I don't think that, from a statistical standpoint, we see a larger percentage of tech support requests for Speedball over other kits. It's just that we sell a whole lot of Speedball and Crack kits, and so there will be more tech support posts for those kits here than, say, a Submissive passive controller kit.

There are thousands of working Speedball kits out there. Most went together without a hitch and you don't hear about them very often. Some had a hitch or two here and there but got running with some help, which we are here to provide. While you can indeed save a ton of money over a similar quality finished product, the real point behind building a kit is to challenge one's self a bit. That means you might have to stop and start over at some point, or seek some help. Without that happening occasionally you are unable to learn. We here at Bottlehead understand this, as I am of a nature to take on something I've never done before on a regular basis. Lots of times I fuck up the first time. And maybe the second time, too. But I usually stick with it until I get it. That's an integral part of learning and growing, and certainly not a good reason not to try something. Typically, the more challenging the project is the higher the reward is at the end.
 
The only two difficulties I encountered :

- the 1st one was how to properly unsolder too-nicely wrapped around components junctions. I should have built the crack with the speedball extension in mind, in order to facilitate the components removal. Perhaps the crack documentation should mention these particular junctions attentions. An unsoldering pump is a must-have.

- the 2nd one was the relative fragility of the small gauge teflon wires. They can easily break when you manipulate the boards to screw them at their right location. Having some spare teflon wire is always a good thing...

Aside of that, the speedball cards remain extremely simple pieces of electronic, even for the beginner I was, considering you pay attention to every single detail mentioned in the very well-done and explicit step-by-step documentation. That makes the transplantation a no-brain operation.
 
Snarii said:
- the 1st one was how to properly unsolder too-nicely wrapped around components junctions. I should have built the crack with the speedball extension in mind, in order to facilitate the components removal. Perhaps the crack documentation should mention these particular junctions attentions. An unsoldering pump is a must-have.
Click to expand...
You can just cut the resistors out and leave the leads in place. 
Snarii said:
- the 2nd one was the relative fragility of the small gauge teflon wires. They can easily break when you manipulate the boards to screw them at their right location. Having some spare teflon wire is always a good thing...
Click to expand...
This is a function of stripping the Teflon wire with the wrong setting on your stripper, which gouges the wire and makes it fragile.
 
Caucasian Blackplate said:
You can just cut the resistors out and leave the leads in place. 
Click to expand...
You're right. I just wanted to keep to components absolutely intact and be able to eventually revert the operation, just in case.

Caucasian Blackplate said:
This is a function of stripping the Teflon wire with the wrong setting on your stripper, which gouges the wire and makes it fragile.
Click to expand...
A mechanical constraint on the wire is possible at the board junction. I simply should have cut the wire a little longer, and this wouldn't have been a problem. But I (wrongly) feared to be short on provided wire. Having the proper tool to strip the wire is also a plus. APEXJR.com sells nice 20 and 22awg PTFE (teflon) solid core wire if someone needs spare for projects.
 
We provide at least 10% more wire than is required to make up all of the cut lengths in any kit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

superdonkey
[FIXED] terminal 7 is OL and OB on Speedball is OL. My bad....
Replies
13
Views
3K
superdonkey
superdonkey
F
Speedball: OA, OB over the 10% of tolerance [resolved]
Replies
11
Views
23K
Fernando
F
C
Severe crackling and popping
Replies
1
Views
1K
Doc B
Doc B
C
Troubleshooting Help [resolved]
Replies
4
Views
211
Crackerjk41
C
O
Finished Blue Crack with upgrades- No Speedball.
Replies
1
Views
1K
Karl5150
Karl5150
Back
Top