Speed ball voltage not good

[ualcap]

I'm back,
Got the new and improved green boards thanks guys beautiful job. However, after connecting the boards and rechecking that the wiring connections were correct I powered up the amp. Oh boy what a mess.
Voltage is as followers : (first number is manual # second is my readings )
Terminals 1 75/42.9 ,2 170/49, 3 0/0, 4 170/48, 5 75/0, 6 0/0 7 100/39, 8 0/.7 ,9 100/0, 10-12 0/0
13 170/47, 15 185/113,19 0/.9, 21 206/183.
9pin tube :A1 75/26, A2 0/0, A3 1.5/.4(the LED is out.Replaced it with a new one still not lit),A4-5 0/0
A6 75/39, A7 0/0, A8 1.5/1.5(LED on), A9 0/0
Octal: B1 75/38, B2 170/45, B3 100/37, B4 75/2.6, B5 170/46, B6 100/.7, B7-8 0/0

Here's what we do know the boards are correct because you guys did them, the wiring of the boards to the amp is correct because I  tripled check them then checked them again. Three different tubes for each socket were used . These tubes and the basic crack worked great until I hooked up the speed ball.
Sorry for such a long post,I figured you needed all this info. Doc if you or Paul would rather discuss over the phone just let me know.
Forever hopeful
Danny

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Hello Danny,

Do not feel the need to mess with the LED's on the 9 pin socket.  Those LED's not lighting is rarely due to a problem with the LED's themselves.

Basically, your high voltage supply is getting dragged way, way, way down (terminals 2/4). 

Try remeasuring the voltages at terminals 1-5 with no 6080 plugged into the amp.  (2/4 should pop up close to 200, 1/5 should be 70-90)

-PB

 

[ualcap]

Paul,
Voltage on  term 1 65v, 2 218v, 4 218v, 5 not good 216v...

 

[Paul Birkeland]

OK, this is very helpful.

I'm guessing one of the LED's on the 9 pin socket isn't lighting? (maybe the one you replaced?)

You can pop off the red wires that connect to "O" on each of the small green PC boards, then swap those connections, just to double check that both boards work.

If terminal 1 suddenly creeps up to 216V with the "O" wires switched, you have a board problem.
If terminal 1 stays around 65V with the other board feeding it, you should check that LED on the socket carefully.

Once you get stable voltages at 1/5, then it is time to look at the center board and how it's installed.  It is dragging the high voltage supply way, way down, indicating some kind of near-short situation.  It may be easiest to pop up a couple of photos and we can help you more quickly (in terms of the center large board).

I must emphasize, however, that getting the voltages at 1/5 correct is mandatory for troubleshooting the rest of the circuit.

-PB

(In future upgrade manuals, as in the Reduction upgrade, we are splitting things down a bit, so you can do half the upgrade, then test the amp, then continue with the process with renewed confidence)

 

[ualcap]

Paul
Switch the O wires voltage for 1,2,4,5 215-220 volts 6080 tube out no LED lit on any boards

 

[ualcap]

Put in 6080 volt same as first post. LED on right side (top of board facing direction of hp jack)of big board out . Led still out on A3.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

As I said before, twice actually, you really need to leave the 6080 tube out for now.

Can you verify that the wires from the "O" pads are going to terminals 1 and 5?

If you just switched the "O" wires and no LED's lit on the boards or 9 pin socket, I would expect that a miswire would cause this.

-PB

 

[ualcap]

I did leave the 6080 tube out for the test. The tube was out for the second reading when I swapped the wires. the additional info about the LED was from the first post I forgot to mention about the LEDs on the big board.YES the the O wires are coming from 1 and 5. As I stated in the first post the LED on A 3 was not lit I replaced it ans still no Light. LED on A8 was on and voltage checked normal.Please explain miss wire. the wiring for basic crack and speed ball is exactly as the manual instructs.Before I installed speed ball all ohms and Volts were text book. all I did was remove the required components and in stalled the new wires for the crack installation. 

 

[Paul Birkeland]

On the wire leaving the "O" pad and going to terminal 5,set your meter to continuity beep, then check for continuity at terminal 5 and at the tube socket.

 

[ualcap]

Did that already. Every time I complete a solder I do that. I solder then check for continuity.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Can you post some pics of your build?

 

[ualcap]

Paul,
I got so discussed with this build. I disconnected the speed ball from my amp. I'm tired of the fighting the battle. I've completely rebuilt this thing twice on my own dime and had you all build the boards. I find it hard to believe this upgrade is worth the frustration. Unless you all have a better solution I'm done. If you want photos of my basic crack I'll be happy to send them.

 

[Doc B]

Danny, I'm sorry that you have had so much trouble with this. You have always been great to work with on the phone and you seem to have a good understanding of the way our stuff goes together. Not sure what to say about what the problem is since things are now different, but we would certainly be willing to look it over again on our dime.

 

[wullymc]

Don't give up!  Maybe walk away from it for a little while.  You have the best person helping you in Paul.  You will get it going just breathe.  I know it can be frustrating but when you get it to work you will be very proud.

Everyone finds their problem eventually.

All the best...Dave

 

[danosol]

Read some of my posts I had issues as well.  I am terribly impatient and I got the Speedball working.  I too had the voltages going great pre Speedball and then a few wiring mistakes and trouble shooting from Paul and Doc got it turned around.  Hang in there!

By the way I'm still impatient.  

 

[ualcap]

Thanks Guys for the positive support.
Thanks Eileen,Doc and Paul you guys are the best. Dave and Wllymc thanks for the positive support. I think I'll take a few days off and listen to music on my basic crack regroup and start again.
Thanks
Danny

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Hello Danny,

We can roll through it and trouble shoot, piece by piece.

When you're ready, you can pop out the 22K resistor between 1 and 2, then test each of the small boards (I to 1, O to 2, G to ground where it's convenient). 

Each of the boards should give you the ~70V on terminal 2. 

I'll keep an eye out for your reply when you're ready, I'm also happy to do a quick turnaround repair for you if you decide to send it in.

-PB