Solder Gauge ?
- Thread starter El Tel
- Start date
Hi Terry,
I use 0.8mm (0.032" in old money).
Leaded Rosin core.
In the UK from here:
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/solder/cardas-quad-eutectic-solder.html
A bit pricey at £25 if only using for one job.
For smaller amount when first starting out I bought Weller 1mm on Amazon.
They only seem to have 1.5mm at the moment but you can get 1mm 100g on a certain auction site for £12 which will do the job.
All with Lead!
I use 0.8mm (0.032" in old money).
Leaded Rosin core.
In the UK from here:
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/solder/cardas-quad-eutectic-solder.html
A bit pricey at £25 if only using for one job.
For smaller amount when first starting out I bought Weller 1mm on Amazon.
They only seem to have 1.5mm at the moment but you can get 1mm 100g on a certain auction site for £12 which will do the job.
All with Lead!
Assuming you are using leaded solder, 370-400.
Too hot and higher risk of damage though most components are quite tough.
Too cold and have to apply heat for longer so its a balance.
Also consider size of the tip, size of connection and solder gauge.
Very small contact point means less surface area for transfer of heat and if large connection or solder gauge means longer contact time.
It's really something to practice where it doesn't matter until you get a feel for it.
I had all the same questions when I started (left unasked), and no amount of instruction will tell you more than those first few attempts.
Just remember to look for the solder flowing into the joint. If after 5 seconds nothing is melting, either contact is not good or iron too cold.
You shouldn't need hotter than 400.
Too hot and higher risk of damage though most components are quite tough.
Too cold and have to apply heat for longer so its a balance.
Also consider size of the tip, size of connection and solder gauge.
Very small contact point means less surface area for transfer of heat and if large connection or solder gauge means longer contact time.
It's really something to practice where it doesn't matter until you get a feel for it.
I had all the same questions when I started (left unasked), and no amount of instruction will tell you more than those first few attempts.
Just remember to look for the solder flowing into the joint. If after 5 seconds nothing is melting, either contact is not good or iron too cold.
You shouldn't need hotter than 400.
The Cardas solder is excellent. Buying the big reel is the most economical but for a few £/$ you can get shorter lengths 3.5/5m from eBay. 3.5m will build a Crack with some left over. Depends on how much kit making you intend to do in the future. The big reel will last the average person many years!
1/8" copper should be just fine, but you'll need a different IEC module to fit. 0.10" copper would be best, but I'm not sure you'd be able to find it.
Since I haven't done exactly what you're doing, I certainly don't want to be responsible for what might go wrong!El Tel said:
Why not just paint the aluminium one with a metallic copper paint?
There are loads of options.
I admit very few actually pass for real copper but good attractive results, hammered or smooth, are possible.
And if you don't like the result, you can always strip it off and start again.
I would suggest this route first as you will be dealing with a known quantity in terms of chassis strength, especially once it gets hot.
There are loads of options.
I admit very few actually pass for real copper but good attractive results, hammered or smooth, are possible.
And if you don't like the result, you can always strip it off and start again.
I would suggest this route first as you will be dealing with a known quantity in terms of chassis strength, especially once it gets hot.
Thermioniclife
Member
2.5mm is only .0015" thinner than 2.54mm.
2.54mm= .09998"
2.5mm= .0984"
Nothing to worry about.
2.54mm= .09998"
2.5mm= .0984"
Nothing to worry about.
