Thermioniclife
Member
Hey folks,
Can any of your stepped attenuator kits be adapted to work on a SEX 3.0?
Thanks.
Can any of your stepped attenuator kits be adapted to work on a SEX 3.0?
Thanks.
sex 3.0 stepped attenuator question
- Thread starter Thermioniclife
- Start date
Hello Lee,
The chassis plate of the S3X is just not quite large enough to make it a practical installation. I think even a PEC pot is a bit of a tight fit, but a workable substitution.
-PB
The chassis plate of the S3X is just not quite large enough to make it a practical installation. I think even a PEC pot is a bit of a tight fit, but a workable substitution.
-PB
Thermioniclife
Member
Thanks Paul,
I just ordered a Sex 3.0 and C4s during the last sale and have plenty of time to come up with wacky ideas while waiting for their arrival.
Best wishes for the Holidays and the upcoming new year.
Lee
I just ordered a Sex 3.0 and C4s during the last sale and have plenty of time to come up with wacky ideas while waiting for their arrival.
Best wishes for the Holidays and the upcoming new year.
Lee
Natural Sound
New member
Bottlehead used to sell a passive preamp. I forget what they called it. Basically it was a stepped attenuator with a multi input switch in an outboard enclosure. Unfortunately it has been discontinued.
There are several companies that sell them online. One company in Poland gets good reviews. https://www.khozmo.com/stereo_selector.html
Some creative bottlehead kit builders have shoehorned this https://glass-ware.stores.yahoo.net/a3mini.html into the S.E.X. 2.1. Not sure if it will fit in the 3.0. It will require some careful drilling. But might be worth it depending on your skill/comfort level.
I hope this helps stimulate you "wacky" ideas.
There are several companies that sell them online. One company in Poland gets good reviews. https://www.khozmo.com/stereo_selector.html
Some creative bottlehead kit builders have shoehorned this https://glass-ware.stores.yahoo.net/a3mini.html into the S.E.X. 2.1. Not sure if it will fit in the 3.0. It will require some careful drilling. But might be worth it depending on your skill/comfort level.
I hope this helps stimulate you "wacky" ideas.
I ordered S3X and Mainline at the same time to try the exact same thing.
With the shunt attenuator from the Mainline i got the size of it for S3X.
Unfortunately it wouldn't fit. So i went with smaller Elma switches to make it work.
https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb16519342/p5pb16519342.jpg
https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb16521276/p5pb16521276.jpg
With the shunt attenuator from the Mainline i got the size of it for S3X.
Unfortunately it wouldn't fit. So i went with smaller Elma switches to make it work.
https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb16519342/p5pb16519342.jpg
https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb16521276/p5pb16521276.jpg
Thermioniclife
Member
I was thinking that I could mount a Twoquiet attenuator on the front panel of the wooden base.
The amp is going to reside on a shelf above my bench in my evil laboratory, so having the switches on the front would be ideal.
I guess my next questions are 1) what is the width of the Twoquiet trim bezel? and 2) will the resistors included in that kit be suitable to use in the S3X?
As far as mounting on the wooden base I have a lathe, a milling machine and a router so I can pretty much make or modify any parts that may be needed.
Thanks
The amp is going to reside on a shelf above my bench in my evil laboratory, so having the switches on the front would be ideal.
I guess my next questions are 1) what is the width of the Twoquiet trim bezel? and 2) will the resistors included in that kit be suitable to use in the S3X?
As far as mounting on the wooden base I have a lathe, a milling machine and a router so I can pretty much make or modify any parts that may be needed.
Thanks
Thermioniclife
Member
Oops,
I meant what is the width of the metal backing plate on the Twoqiuet kit or Mourquiet or Beequiet.
I can remove the input select portion of the trim bezel.
I meant what is the width of the metal backing plate on the Twoqiuet kit or Mourquiet or Beequiet.
I can remove the input select portion of the trim bezel.
The attenuator plate is 6" wide, so there's certainly room on the wood base for it.
It will be a serious headache to build like that though!
It will be a serious headache to build like that though!
Thermioniclife
Member
Thanks PB,
How about the resistor values, will any of these kits have appropriate values?
How about the resistor values, will any of these kits have appropriate values?
Yes, you would want the BeeQuiet.
IMO your best bet would be to mount the metal attenuator plate on l-brackets that connect it to the top chassis plate, then just have holes drilled in the chassis for the shafts to poke through. Luckily for you the shafts on those switches we provide are quite long!
That will make the amp a bit easier to take apart and much easier to build.
-PB
IMO your best bet would be to mount the metal attenuator plate on l-brackets that connect it to the top chassis plate, then just have holes drilled in the chassis for the shafts to poke through. Luckily for you the shafts on those switches we provide are quite long!
That will make the amp a bit easier to take apart and much easier to build.
-PB
Thermioniclife
Member
Thanks Paul.
Thermioniclife
Member
Thanks Tom-s noted.
Yes, the Submissive used the attenuator setup that's in the Mainline, which is a lower impedance design than the attenuator upgrade kits for the BeePre, Stereomour, and Smash.
Karl5150
New member
Lee - It can be done, I documented adding BH stepped attenuators based on the Mourquiet, to both a standard and an oversized panel (both custom, not stock BH). Believe Paul when he says it will be a tight fit, and my DIY versions didn't really save any $ over adapting a BH kit. Check out S.E.X. 2.1.1 and 3.0.1 posts here back in Jan/March.
If you really want them on the front of the kit you could build a base that would accommodate.(taller /longer)
Good Luck
Karl
If you really want them on the front of the kit you could build a base that would accommodate.(taller /longer)
Good Luck
Karl
