Semi-OT: Workbench Surface

[caffeinator]

Hello All,

I have just about finished putting together a workbench, but am pausing to consider putting a work surface of some kind on it before it gets buried with stuff.

The bench top is CDX plywood, since it was what I happened to have on hand.  Since it had been knocking around the garage for a while, there are some missing, shrunken and crumbling knot-spots, and it's a little rough.

So, I'm curious if anyone has recommendations for a good general purpose work surface?  I could probably fill the voids and maybe put on a light coat of some kind of finish, or perhaps put down a layer of masonite or something like that.  A workbench in a place I lived once had cardboard on top, which actually wasn't bad for some uses.  The surface will mostly be used for miscellaneous household tasks, electronics, some woodworking tasks, and, of course, providing a level surface for the accumulation of junk.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Paul Birkeland]

When I finished off my workshop early this year, I tiled one surface with cheap ceramic tile (on top of two layers of ply) and put masonite on the other.  While the tile was 90 cents per square foot, it still looks awesome and holds up to all the abuse I give it.  When building gear, I have big foam pads that I rest on the surface for protection.

The masonite looks like hell, and I haven't really done much to contribute to that.  It just doesn't have sufficient scratch resistance in my opinion.

If money was not a limitation, I would get 20-30mm honed granite.

 

[jrebman]

I've had superb results with cork flooring on top of either ply or a solid core door.  And this works equally well for a desk work surface as well as shop and electronics use.  It's super tough, holds up well, doesn't burn or scratch easily, and looks great with no special maintenance at all.

HTH,

Jim

 

[Doc B]

That black silica filled epoxy lab bench top stuff is awesome. Awesomely expensive too, I imagine.

 

[caffeinator]

Thanks for the great suggestions - please keep them coming.  Coincidentally, I was wandering Home Depot last night and looking at some tile.  Cost runs anywhere from the low $1's per s.f. on up, but, as I have about 16 s.f. to cover, it won't add up that fast.

Masonite has the main advantages of being cheap and fast, but yes, even the 'tempered' type (the kind with the hard as opposed to sort of fuzzy surface) doesn't hold up to much wear and tear.

The cork flooring seems like a great idea...I may have to go back to HD and look at some of that.  I even have some leveling compound I could use to fill the voids in the ply underneath.

Of course, laboratory work surface seems like the gold standard, but as I have little gold, I'll have to opt for something more thrifty.

 

[Laudanum]

What about a laminate ( "formica").  The higher tech, super durable stuff is kinda expensive but the standard stuff isnt and holds up pretty well.  If you dont need the edges covered,  it would be easy to do with some contact cement and trim around the edges with a laminate trimmer.  You can pretty easily do the edges too if need be.    I like the tile, but would prefer a smooth surface myself. 

 

[caffeinator]

That's a pretty good idea!  I've done that (sort of) in the past - a couple of houses ago, I used a preformed countertop (counter with formed-in, pre-covered bullnose and backsplash) for a workbench top.  It looked good, though since I got it on clearance, I had to take the pattern they had (now it would be called "MadMen retro-cool" but at the time was more like Disney Tomorrowland family bathroom), and at least at first, it seemed odd to be doing dirty work on the pristine, brightly colored surface.

But, you're right - it's durable and reasonably priced, and I still have all the tools from a laminate job I did a few years back...including the rollers, trimmer, and a huge can of contact cement.

 

[RayP]

I inherited a nice old desk with great drawers for storing stuff. The desk top is very close to 2' x 4' and I just laid a sheet of clear polycarbonate on top. It's worked well for several years and there is no damage to the top of the desk..

On top of the polycarbonate I have a lazy susan from Ikea. It helps to be able to turn the latest building project around to make it easier to get at it for soldering etc.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90074483/

ray

 

[electrovice]

Any thrift stores where you live? I see butcher block top tables in thrifts all of the time. Hard rock maple is rare but oak or mystery wood tables are pretty common. The material is pretty durable and blemishes can often be sanded right out. If you go on the final day of a color discount (Mondays at the Seattle area Goodwills) you might score a suitable table for $1.29.

John

 

[4krow]

So far, I have been happy with a very low cut carpet. No scratches, and then are less likely roll off. But maybe different sections would benefit from different surfaces. Wood works well when mounting work lights or something that benefits from stability. Carpet is good to set  component on.

 

[rif]

Many years ago I toyed with the idea of using a sheet of hdpe for a benchtop.  I believe that's the material used in cutting boards. In any case I never got around to actually making a bench.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Many years ago I toyed with the idea of using a sheet of hdpe for a benchtop.

In my last living situation, my bench tops were 3/8" marine HDPE.  This was a pretty nice arrangement, as HDPE is very soft and won't scratch most surfaces, but I noticed that hot solder blobs would cause some problems, and found myself using acetone here and there to get the surface clean. 

The ultra bright white color sure did provide a nice look!

 

[Tubejack]

I have a workshop with wooden benches topped with 3/4" A/C ply and 1/4" masonite glued to that surface, with a couple of coats of poly.  I also have 2 steel rolling work surfaces http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Work-Table-49/dp/B001TMEX7E.  On both I lay down non-skid tool drawer liner on my assembly work surfaces.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOOL-BOX-DRAWER-NON-SLIP-LINER-PADDED-LINING-PAD-FOAM-RUBBER-MATERIAL-PADDING-/280834700778?pt=Tool_Boxes_Storage&hash=item41630d75ea is just an example. I usually get mine at Loews.  Soft, non scratch for the chassis/transformers, the small bits of solder/wire fall into the crevices, easy to grab tools off, easy clean up - lift and vacuum/brush off, and protects bench surface as well.

 

[4krow]

Now I've done it. I read your posts and the wheels are spinning...dammit

 

[caffeinator]

While wandering Home Depot last night, I noticed that butcher block tops have become pretty common on their rolling tool chests.  Some appeared to be bamboo, which seemed especially dense and looked like it would be quite durable.  I have used butcher block before and it makes a great work surface.  I've already built the table up to near finished height, though, so I don't think I can add that now.

They did have cork flooring samples on display, and that looked great, but I didn't want to wait to order it.  The price wasn't bad, though, at about $2/sf.

Looking at the masonite, which was kind of beat up (a lot of the edges were damaged), I noticed they also had luaun underlayment for even less (about $0.65/sf). It is laminated, of tight, straight-grain veneers and about 5mm thick.  It seemed substantial enough to resist punctures and denting, but with a little bit of non-skid-ness like a butcher block would have.  I decided I'd try a layer of that with a coat or two of poly on it for stain and moisture resistance.  I am not sure if I'll glue it down or not, though I may as well, since my next choice is probably the cork, underlayment would be a good substrate.

I think if I was starting over, I'd try to find some hardwood butcher block material for all or part of the surface. I have a piece of cheapie butcher block that I'd planned to use as an extension table (for more room and for the inevitable time that most of the bench is buried with stuff), now I will start trolling the local Goodwill for suitable donor tables.

 

[jrebman]

You reminded me of what we did for a large worksurface in our community shop some 8+ years ago when we were all moving in... at the time they were doing demolition to a local Mall and had huge slabs of the parquet wood flooring for anybody to haul off.  It was rough and jagged, had lots of nails and big staples in it and was probably 5/4" thick altogether.  We grabbed a piece with as many good edges as we could find and not much larger than we needed, then I spent a morning grinding off all the nails and staples that could not be pulled out, and then we put the monster on a huge table saw and trimmed it to size, built a base for it, (also out of scrap from the same demolition) and still have use it to this day, and it's taken a lot of abuse over the years and still looks great and is as sturdy as ever.

-- Jim

 

[4krow]

Jim,

I am for reusing material, and have done so many times. The problem is that my saw blades go to an early retirement more often than not. Twice this year, I have sawed part way through screws with broken off heads, LENGTHWAYS. "Ok, who's the next saw blade up for execution?"

 

[tuffy_puppy]

hi again,  can anybody here say magnet first?  little ol' winedrinker here!!  don

 

[4krow]

I've never used a magnetic saw blade b4, but it's worth a try. So, does it like, rip the nails out just before they get in the way?

 

[tuffy_puppy]

no,  one uses the magnet to recon the situation before one heads out to purchase a new saw blade to replace the one just ruined by one's lack  of data.  hahahahahahaha!  pour another glass, don!!!!!!!!!