PJ, converted your Paramounts to 6SN7 yet?

Paully

New member
You may not even have converted your personal amps to the new board, much less gone over to 6SN7 from the 5670.  But when you do get around to it, I would be very interested to hear what your impressions are.
 
Halfway. My personal amps were a prototype for the new board (Ed's amps were the other prototype version; I got the one that sounded best and Ed was going to adopt the new board for his.

But I haven't swapped the sockets yet. The hardest part will be mechanical, replacing the 9-pin+hole shrinker with an octal socket. Then it's just solder the loose wires to the right pins and adjust the bias trimmer. I have a couple prototypes of other products to build first though, and I'm a slow and sloppy builder so it might take a while. (Also, my parafeed Auricaps are mounted like trucknuts and really ought to be tied down while I'm working on it. And I keep saying I'll deadbug a PEC pot as a gain control into these amps some day...)
 
Cool.  I ordered the new board and am going to use it with the 5670 first.  But I have bought so many 7N7 tubes (yes, I have a problem) that I am seriously considering converting them over to 6SN7 and then using an adapter to be able to use the 7N7 as well.  It will be a while before I am able to do that myself, but if you get around to it do post how it goes.  We'll see who gets to it first!  If it is just a pin-out change to the new socket, and I can ask Grainger about the bias trimmer, I may go ahead and have a shot at it once I am comfortable with the sound of the 5670.

I have some very large auricaps dangling from the bottom of my Paramounts as well.  Plus some teflons, and I want to put in some oilers in the power supply, and...
 
You can secure them by attaching a "stickey back" to the base and using a cable tie.  Stickey back is what I have always heard electricians call the square nylon attachment with an adhesive tape on back.  I have no idea what the real name is.
 
Yeah, that's the usual way. But then you can't take the amp out of the base without unsoldering the cap. And there's no room on the chassis plate - my caps are 2" diameter by 2.5" long!

Maybe I can screw a couple of them to standoffs on the 300B socket mounting screws. ... Grainger, I think you gave me a good idea!
 
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