Painting my top plate

[ogchef]

Man never knew registration here would have me go through so many verification hurdles to make this thread...anywhoo....

Hi all,

I've dis-assembled my Crack as I want to paint the top plate. So I did bought myself a few cans of Enamel gloss black spray paints and gave the top plate 2 coats and 3 days worth of drying time, the same for the trafo bell. The problem now is that, while it looks shiny and clean touching it or using a light cloth on it to get rid of dust will leave light scuff marks, very faint in normal ambient light but under the sun or a very bright source it's very visible. I was planning to get it powder-coated but the cheapest quote I've got was from $100 + so not really going that route.

The question now is that, is their any type of spray that act's as a sealer in clear colour that I can spray over the current enamel black base coat to protect it from the problems I've explained above and also able to tolerate the heat that will sit on the plate once the amp is back in use?

Thanks

 

[Doc B]

Man never knew registration here would have me go through so many verification hurdles to make this thread...anywhoo....

Unfortunately there are so many spambots and meatbots out there these days that the choice is either set up those multiple verifications or try to use honey pot style anti spam software. The anti spam software can be overly aggressive and block legitimate users from registering, so I made the choice to use multiple verifications.

As to the paint, even thought the manufacturers want you to believe that it dries completely in 24 hours or whatever it usually takes a few weeks for it to fully polymerize. Sometimes the best way to maintain a deep gloss is to wax the finish.

 

[ogchef]

Ahk fair enough. So would constant polishing using wax is required or just once? Right now there are some scuff marks and it's looking really ugly under the light and I can't imagine what it will look like once I have my Crack rebuilt again for use as from time to time I would need to wipe the dust off the top plate.  Any sort of particular wax I should be using on top of enamel spray paint?

Cheers

 

[ssssly]

If it looks really scuffed up now, chances are wax won't really help much.

My suggestion would be to lightly rub it down with 0000 steel wool to even the surface. Then repaint it. If the enamel you are using scratches easily, once you have painted it you can put a polyurethane top coat on it. Two or three coats, leveled with 0000 steel wool in between should give you a nice deep look and provide plenty of protection.

Allow at least 72 hours between painting and poly. And 24 hrs in between poly coats.

Poly can be waxed with car wax to a mirror like shine as well. I use either pure carnauba or woodworkers paste wax myself.

 

[ogchef]

Thanks brother, that was the kind of post I was sort of expecting. The scuffs are not too bad but if you ever used a piece of dirty clothe and scrubbed it on a piano black plastic surface than you would know what I mean by the scuffs.

With regards to the polyutherane coat, the only ones I've found by a quick browse on my local hardware store's website specifies it is only for wood only: http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_spray-paint-sat-british-paints-300g-clr-polyurethane-87070002_P1400040.aspx

As I would like to keep it to being in spray can factor, is there any specific things I should take not of on polyutherane, correct me if I'm wrong but I've read that if you get varnish on enamel, it will peel off?

Thanks all.

 

[ssssly]

Never tried the spray stuff. And I would avoid it for going over something painted. Especially spray painted. The different catalyzing chemicals in spray on stuff can cause ripples and peals.

I would suggest a good old can of oil modified poly and a foam brush. Dip the brush and squeeze it out really good. Put really thin coats on. If there is a defect in the coat (bubble, run, dust bunny) sand it down with 320 or higher grit, buff it out with 0000 steel wool and slap another coat on.

 

[Grainger49]

Polyurethane is bullet proof, it stands up to water, alcohol and is great on furniture.  But, check the range of heat it stands up to.  A couple of light coats dried for 1/2 hour between and a last wetter coat, no drips, will give you a long lasting shiny finish with Polyurethane.  I have sprayed it for years on furniture and my MQ brass end plates.

From your description I would have thought stripping and shooting it again would have been the answer, like ssssly said.  But since wax is much easier try it first.  Wax can be removed with alcohol, better yet lacquer thinner. Don't do that inside! 

Good luck, let us know what happens.

 

[STURMJ]

I would try a good polishing with rubbing compound. If that doesn't work out, another coat of paint followed with a hour in the oven (160F). Then allow to dry (1-2 days) polish with rubbing compound.  And follow that with a good car wax.

 

[Grainger49]

He's right, polishing compound is made for smoothing paint finishes.  I know I have about 2 dozen in my garage and two very shiny cars.

Here is my 1999 built S2000

 

[akomarek]

When I paint my guitar effects pedals I will prime, paint, sometimes hand paint on top of that, and then spray a coat or two of clear enamel.  After spraying the clear I will bake in an old toaster oven set to 200F or so for about 2-4 hours.  The clear gives it a nice professional looking gloss, and the baking seems to harden the paint.  If your wife isn't home, you could probably just use the oven in the kitchen. 

By the way, if you do try wax I would recommend not using wax containing silicone or you'll have a hard time with fish-eye/orange peel if you end up repainting.

 

[ogchef]

Wow you guys are awesome big thanks to all those that suggested the different methods. Learnt a lot.

I think I will give it another coat on gloss black over the top plate give it 2 hours or so to set and dry up and then I'll give it a nice bake in the oven (don't worry got an industrial oven outside that I use to fix solder fractures on pcb's) at the mentioned temperature.

After that I will give it some cool-down time and then will use some black car rubbing compound to polish it up. Will the heat on the top plate melt or put off a bad burning odour after the rubbing compound is applied?

If this method doesn't work then I will probably go with asking around at my local hardware depo about coating it with polyutherane. If it still does not go well, my last option would be going the powdercoat route, though expensive but worth it in some ways.

Thanks all.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

(don't worry got an industrial oven outside that I use to fix solder fractures on pcb's)

Head to Sears and buy a powder coating gun, then buy your own powder.  If you have  a clean industrial oven, you can either pay $100 to have someone do your powder coating once, or you can spend $100 to set yourself up to do powder coating on your own.

 

[Doc B]

I dunno about gloss black powder coat. What I have seen has always been a little bumpy/wavy. Black lacquer is a nice idea for gloss black finishes that you can apply without the need for fancy equipment like polyester would require. Just requires some judicious rubbing out. Here's a Tele I did with Ace Hardware black lacquer and a clear lacquer top coat -

 

[Grainger49]

You can read "WD-40" in the reflection.  Kind'a like the clouds in the sky in my car's hood earlier in this thread.

 

[coca]

For Bottlehead chassis plates I sometimes sand them smooth, then take them to an automotive paint shop and have them vinyl washed,  then, have them sprayed with black basecoat/clearcoat. I insist they have the finish looking like a sheet of glass.

Bernie.