Painting cover of PC-3 plate chokes
- Thread starter FraGGleR
- Start date
Yeah, you can paint the plate chokes, masked or not.
The varnish on the outside of the frame doesn't have to be there, we will sometimes brush it off carefully with a wire brush before painting.
Soaking the plate choke in any kind of solvent will remove the varnish that we do want to be there, so I wouldn't recommend that.
The best results I've gotten were from taping off everything but the channel frame, then spray painting.
-PB
The varnish on the outside of the frame doesn't have to be there, we will sometimes brush it off carefully with a wire brush before painting.
Soaking the plate choke in any kind of solvent will remove the varnish that we do want to be there, so I wouldn't recommend that.
The best results I've gotten were from taping off everything but the channel frame, then spray painting.
-PB
I haven't noticed any need for high heat paint. If you want to paint the stack of one of our power transformers, I'd suggest the Rustoleum BBQ paint (thanks for the tip jrebman), but the plate chokes run fairly cool.
The toughest finish overall should come from an epoxy based paint, but the finish quality isn't always exciting.
-PB
The toughest finish overall should come from an epoxy based paint, but the finish quality isn't always exciting.
-PB
Please see attached picture for what I think is some rust that I wanted to paint over. Will this be ok? Some anti-rust primer and then probably just some matte black spray paint. I don't think heat will be an issue, but I don't want to mess with anything electrically. Thanks.
Attachments
I'm not sure you need the primer, I'd just spray right over it. IMO, BBQ paint is a good product for this.
-PB
-PB
4
4krow
Guest
Dam! Now I gotta spray MY chokes. But seriously, if you would like to try it, Rust-O-lium makes a cool truck bed liner spray that, while it is a joke for trucks, it is a very durable coating. I sprayed my Quickie with it and will do so again in the future. It is not glossy, and has a nice fine granual texture.
Paul Joppa
Moderator
In normal use, none of our iron should get above 140 degrees F (60 degrees C). That's a design goal; I have not run around measuring everything. For what it's worth, it takes 2 to 3 hours for everything to come to its full operating temperature. Normal means 68F (20C) room temperature and adequate air circulation.
denti alligator
New member
I wanted to paint my MQ choke frames today but gave up trying to mask around them. Any suggestions?
Can I paint the black part of the chokes, too? What about the base of the transformer? I might try to do all these at once, but masking the plate between the chokes and the transformer will be a pain.
Can I paint the black part of the chokes, too? What about the base of the transformer? I might try to do all these at once, but masking the plate between the chokes and the transformer will be a pain.
PassionForSound
New member
denti alligator said:
Yeah, the masking is a pain. I found it easier using small bits of tape for the tricky bits (like at the corners of the bracket) and then multiple layers of tape to seal the rest.
I did wonder if the bracket could be removed, but wasn't brave enough to try.
PassionForSound said:
You risk having the whole thing come apart if you start removing the channel frame, especially on gapped iron (plate chokes and series feed output transformers).
PassionForSound
New member
Caucasian Blackplate said:
Phew. Glad I was a wuss and didn't try.
denti alligator
New member
Turned out ok.
PassionForSound
New member
Looks great. I love the red and silver combination - very chic!
4
4krow
Guest
I agree. Sometimes the color combinations just work. That is good news since I know that you put a lot of work into this project.
denti alligator
New member
Thanks. It's by no means perfect, but it's better than it was before. The MQ choke frames were not pretty. I'm also glad I decided not to paint the black parts, since these look quite nice next to the red frames.
But lemme tell you. This is no substitute for building a kit, and I'm so itching to build one. It's been over a year for me.
I really want to do my Quickie base, but I have no clue what would really look nice with the yellow plate. Maybe a glossy grey? Silver? White?
But lemme tell you. This is no substitute for building a kit, and I'm so itching to build one. It's been over a year for me.
I really want to do my Quickie base, but I have no clue what would really look nice with the yellow plate. Maybe a glossy grey? Silver? White?
PassionForSound
New member
Yeah - yellow and grey look great together!
I'm currently planning a Mainline build (still a little way off - don't have the kit yet, but I can dream!
). Thinking of going with an anodised blue chassis plate with chrome bell and maybe a natural wood finish with just a light oil or varnish. If I get really ambitious (courageous?) I might add a routed, blue pinstripe to the base.
I'm currently planning a Mainline build (still a little way off - don't have the kit yet, but I can dream!
). Thinking of going with an anodised blue chassis plate with chrome bell and maybe a natural wood finish with just a light oil or varnish. If I get really ambitious (courageous?) I might add a routed, blue pinstripe to the base.
