New Crack build voltages off [Solved]

[OldManNiko]

All my resistances checked within tolerance.  Bolstered by that confidence, I continuity checked the circuits to make sure my joints weren't dead then gave it some power.  I can see both tubes light up, both sides of each, However only one LED is lighting [A3] (my first indication of an error). I went ahead and took measurements for voltage.  Here's the numbers I got.  Any ideas on where I should start? 

1  -> 147    (75-90) *
2  -> 163.3 (170)
3  -> 0        (0)
4  -> 163.3 (170)
5  -> 77 ( 75-90 )

6  -> 0 ( 0 )
7  -> 146 ( 100 ) *
8  -> 0 ( 0 )
9  -> 101.7 ( 100 )
10  ->0 ( 0 )

11  ->0 ( 0 )
12  ->0 ( 0 )
13  ->163.2 ( 170 )
14  ->0 ( 0 )
15  ->186 ( 185 )
16 N/A
17 N/A
18 N/A
19 N/A
20  ->0 ( 0 )
21  ->208.5 ( 206 )

a1  ->77 ( 90 )*
a2  ->0 ( 0 )
a3  N/A
a4  ->0 ( 0 )
a5  ->0  ( 0 )
a6  ->147.7 ( 90 ) *
a7  ->0 ( 0 )
a8 N/A
a9  ->0 ( 0 )

b1 ->147 ( 90 ) *
b2 ->164 ( 170 )
b3 ->146 ( 100 ) *
b4 ->77 ( 90 ) *
b5 ->164 ( 170 )
b6 ->102 ( 100 )
b7 ->0 ( 0 )
b8 ->0 ( 0 )

* denotes voltages that are concerning me.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Can you see two glowing dots on the top of the 12UA7?

-PB

 

[OldManNiko]

Both tubes are lighting properly.  Here's some pics of the tubes lit as well as the LEDs on the A tube base.

 

[Strikkflypilot]

It is not possible to verify the polarity of the LEDs from You pictures but the A8 led looks situated very close to a blob of solder on the center pin. Scorched?

 

[OldManNiko]

Yep it's a scorched LED.  I unsoldered it, and was not able to get it to light independently.  I doubt the local Fry's will have a replacement, so I'll await a new LED from the fine folks at Bottlehead.  Does this explain the voltage irregularities elsewhere in the circuit? I have no idea.  But I know I cannot proceed any further without the LED as it seems to provide much more than some light, bias voltage if I am correct.

 

[Strikkflypilot]

AFAIK these LEDs are there to make sure 1.5vDC is drawn for bias voltage for each side of the 12AU7(cathode biased). If You have a working LED, I believe it is ok to short A3 to A8. Correct me if I am wrong, Paul.

 

[OldManNiko]

AFAIK these LEDs are there to make sure 1.5vDC is drawn for bias voltage for each side of the 12AU7(cathode biased). If You have a working LED, I believe it is ok to short A3 to A8. Correct me if I am wrong, Paul.

Thanks for the help.  Jumpering did the trick.  Now to warm it all up.  No noise at all that I can hear.  I'll do another voltage check tomorrow to make sure heating the unit hasn't cause some value changes.  Again thanks for the help in getting this going!