More than a little intimidated
- Thread starter CORedhawk
- Start date
Larpy
Member
What makes Bottlehead instructions intimidating to a first-timer is how detailed they are: page after page after page of "do this" and "do that." But once you start building, all that detail makes the process easier, not harder.
Just go slow and check off each step as you complete it so that you don't inadvertently miss a step.
My first build was a tube-based guitar amp that came with parts, a schematic, and a layout (of components). No instructions. I figured it out, though there were many missteps along the way. I think my next build was a BH Foreplay III, which was a breeze by comparison.
Just go slow and check off each step as you complete it so that you don't inadvertently miss a step.
My first build was a tube-based guitar amp that came with parts, a schematic, and a layout (of components). No instructions. I figured it out, though there were many missteps along the way. I think my next build was a BH Foreplay III, which was a breeze by comparison.
If you do the build in two hour chunks each evening and really focus on making your build look exactly like what's in the manual, that tends to help a lot.
If things don't work out, the repair service is also available provided the kit is built stock.
If things don't work out, the repair service is also available provided the kit is built stock.
Mucker
Member
I built an S3X recently and was meticulous but still missed soldering a couple points. It seemed like there were a couple hundred things to do in the lengthy instruction set. Usually 198 of 200 is pretty good by any standard .... EXCEPT ... 200 of 200 is required for a working amp :-*
Well worth it!
Well worth it!
Mucker
Member
Another important thing for me was making sure to use the correct gauge when wire stripping. You want to avoid nicking the wire. I'd recommend using a high quality stripper .... cheap one's will be a real headache especially with a lengthy build.
This Hakko stripper is a good affordable one: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00FZPHMUG/ctmakerupdate-20/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=ctmakerupdate-20&linkId=bb05b0f554aacb90a7847d422a5e582c&language=en_US&th=1
I had a bad wire strip that caused a tube not to glow and troubleshooting it was difficult. I had conductivity everywhere but apparently the barely together nicked wire wasn't allowing enough juice through. After enough poking around, the wire finally broke off and I knew I found the problem.
After soldering a wire and letting it cool I use a pair of tweezers and give it a good tug making sure it's a rock solid connection. But I obviously missed that one. Practicing wire stripping beforehand could make it easier for you.
This Hakko stripper is a good affordable one: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00FZPHMUG/ctmakerupdate-20/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=ctmakerupdate-20&linkId=bb05b0f554aacb90a7847d422a5e582c&language=en_US&th=1
I had a bad wire strip that caused a tube not to glow and troubleshooting it was difficult. I had conductivity everywhere but apparently the barely together nicked wire wasn't allowing enough juice through. After enough poking around, the wire finally broke off and I knew I found the problem.
After soldering a wire and letting it cool I use a pair of tweezers and give it a good tug making sure it's a rock solid connection. But I obviously missed that one. Practicing wire stripping beforehand could make it easier for you.
CORedhawk said:
I bought a set of drawers for small parts, numbered each, then divided the parts into drawers. I had an Excel sheet with the location for each. That way when I needed a screw or a resistor of a certain size, I knew exactly where it was and that the part was right. It also had a secondary effect of making me go slower since I had to retrieve the part.
Hi CORedhawk,
Welcome and congrats on ordering your kit! I'm sure you'll enjoy the build.
What I did when I built my Mainline was to get ziplock sandwich bags, and when the kit arrived I checked off all the parts against the parts list, and eg. put #4 nuts in one bag - and labelled it, #6 nuts in the next bag and labelled it, #6 lockwashers in the next..... etc.
So I ended up with all the parts checked off the parts list - all present and correct, no lost screws on the floor
and super easy to find the right part as I followed each step in the build.
I also tested all the components that I could do easily - eg resistors with my multimeter - before I soldered them into the kit.
It can be easy to mistake a 1K for a 10K or a 200 ohm for a 200K ohm if you're not familiar with reading the colour codes and much better to get it right first time, than have to troubleshoot and de-solder / repair etc.
Does the above slow you down? Yes and no. The build is slower, yes, but the troubleshooting can be reduced to none.
As others have said, take your time and enjoy it. If you're not sure, stop and post a question, there are plenty of folk on here that will jump in to help.
Have fun!
Welcome and congrats on ordering your kit! I'm sure you'll enjoy the build.
What I did when I built my Mainline was to get ziplock sandwich bags, and when the kit arrived I checked off all the parts against the parts list, and eg. put #4 nuts in one bag - and labelled it, #6 nuts in the next bag and labelled it, #6 lockwashers in the next..... etc.
So I ended up with all the parts checked off the parts list - all present and correct, no lost screws on the floor
and super easy to find the right part as I followed each step in the build.I also tested all the components that I could do easily - eg resistors with my multimeter - before I soldered them into the kit.
It can be easy to mistake a 1K for a 10K or a 200 ohm for a 200K ohm if you're not familiar with reading the colour codes and much better to get it right first time, than have to troubleshoot and de-solder / repair etc.
Does the above slow you down? Yes and no. The build is slower, yes, but the troubleshooting can be reduced to none.
As others have said, take your time and enjoy it. If you're not sure, stop and post a question, there are plenty of folk on here that will jump in to help.
Have fun!
Phippers said:Hi CORedhawk,
Welcome and congrats on ordering your kit! I'm sure you'll enjoy the build.
What I did when I built my Mainline was to get ziplock sandwich bags, and when the kit arrived I checked off all the parts against the parts list, and eg. put #4 nuts in one bag - and labelled it, #6 nuts in the next bag and labelled it, #6 lockwashers in the next..... etc.
So I ended up with all the parts checked off the parts list - all present and correct, no lost screws on the floor
I also tested all the components that I could do easily - eg resistors with my multimeter - before I soldered them into the kit.
It can be easy to mistake a 1K for a 10K or a 200 ohm for a 200K ohm if you're not familiar with reading the colour codes and much better to get it right first time, than have to troubleshoot and de-solder / repair etc.
Does the above slow you down? Yes and no. The build is slower, yes, but the troubleshooting can be reduced to none.
As others have said, take your time and enjoy it. If you're not sure, stop and post a question, there are plenty of folk on here that will jump in to help.
Have fun!
Great suggestions. Wouldn’t have thought to test the voltages at that point. Very helpful. Appreciate your post.
Not the voltages, but in this example, (a resistor), it's resistance value. (in ohms).
So you're just checking / identifying the component on its own before you start.
Many multimeters can measure resistance as well as voltage and current. You select resistance on the meter, and connect the two meter probes across the resistor.
To do this it is best to use crocodile clips on your meter leads rather than holding the probes across the resistor with your fingers, as the latter can give incorrect readings (and it's good to get used to using croc clips for when you come to make voltage measurements on your amp).
The attached picture shows measuring a 3k9 resistor.
So you're just checking / identifying the component on its own before you start.
Many multimeters can measure resistance as well as voltage and current. You select resistance on the meter, and connect the two meter probes across the resistor.
To do this it is best to use crocodile clips on your meter leads rather than holding the probes across the resistor with your fingers, as the latter can give incorrect readings (and it's good to get used to using croc clips for when you come to make voltage measurements on your amp).
The attached picture shows measuring a 3k9 resistor.
