Mainline Build & Wood Finish Question

[PassionForSound]

Here are some progress shots of my Mainline build:

Anodised chassis plate


11300002 by Lachfen, on Flickr

A chrome pinstripe to cover the small anodising blemish on the right edge in the image above


12010003 by Lachfen, on Flickr

Mostly assembled and sitting in the assembled, but unfinished box


WP_20131204_20_17_48_Pro by Lachfen, on Flickr

So my question, Bottlehead peeps, is what finish should I apply to the base? So far I've thought about staining (done this on my other 2 BH products), oiling or painting. What do you think would look good with my blue and silver design?

 

[mcandmar]

Lovely texture on that top plate finish. I'm normally a fan of dark wood stains but i think a light colour would compliment your top plate better.  Its looking good so far..

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I vote for a french polished maple base.

 

[Mike B]

I think it looks good as is.

Give it a good sanding and either oil or poly.

Poly will darken a few shades with age, oil too.  And you won't have to worry about stain differentials.

Not to mention its easier -

 

[JamieMcC]

My preference would be 5 coats of a clear Danish wood oil followed by about 12 coats of a automotive clear this sounds a lot but goes on quick with spray can or spray gun a coat every 5-10 mins if its a hot day. Flat back the finish with 1500 then 2000 paper then cut and polish with compounds as you would a car. It leaves a great high class looking finish with depth, tactilely it feels nice too.

Painting would look good also but to get a nice finish which I think the top plate deserves would be considerably more time and work imo

seal wood + fill grain
prime high-build sand, repeat till smooth going through the grades till 240-320
top coat, if not spraying ask your paint guy if he does a coach paint or has a flow additive to add to the topcoat you can get a great finish with just a foam brush this way.

Also seems a shame to bury nice wood.

What about trying a vinyl instead of painting super quick no sanding, you would get the same effect and if you didn't like it after a few months you could always get the hair dryer heat it up and peel it off and try something else.

Also I wonder if your pinstripe might take a burnish, is it a adhesive strip if you have some spare left over it would be easy to try?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVkWJjglMlY

 

[PassionForSound]

I really like these suggestions. Thanks everyone. My preference is towards the oil, but the oil followed by clear is sounding like a real winner!

 

[Doc B]

Jamie, I like the way you think.

 

[JamieMcC]

Jamie, I like the way you think.

  I feel honoured Doc,

Loquah by the way 150 millilitres of mixed clear coat worked roughly out at about 12 or so coats on the Crack enclosure. Lots of light coats which tack off fast for recoating and you don't risk getting runs.

 

[2wo]

I like the blue and the light wood

The pinstripe makes it look fast ...John

 

[PassionForSound]

I nearly went for a double stripe, but I thought the single stripe could be considered "the mainline" 

 

[Natural Sound]

I took a lead from Clark and use this on my Bottlehead bases.
http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/

 

[PassionForSound]

Nice. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Chris]

I agree with everyone also regarding going with the natural light color of the wood.. Real nice with that color.. A light cherry could work also, but the natural alder is the best.. I was going to say for symmetry sake (I am a symmetry fan) , it needs a stripe on the other side.. BUT, this is totally just me.... I understand your mainline reference..  I am looking forward to your review.. I thought your review on SEX versus Crack was a good and relevant one...

 

[PassionForSound]

Thanks Chris. I fight hard to not be symmetrical with things too. I am reveling in the asymmetry on this occasion!

I've just finished the assembly, but have struck an issue which I'll search for and ask about in the Mainline forum. Photos to follow once I solve the problem...