Length of wire needed for C2A
- Thread starter pure love
- Start date
pure love
Member
I assumed there was more wire included than needed, that means theres almost 10 meters of wire in the Crackatwoa??
A little more is included, but not much. I had maybe, maybe 4 inches of each left at the end of my build. The lengths are what we’d recommend you buy.
I really wouldn’t overthink this, and we’re absolutely not going to measure each length of wire point to point when the recommended lengths are provided already.
I really wouldn’t overthink this, and we’re absolutely not going to measure each length of wire point to point when the recommended lengths are provided already.
pure love
Member
I will be trying to save as much wire as possible by leaving out for example the input switch and two of the rca inputs, the on/off switch and whatever else i can find. Thank you
I’d be remiss if I didn’t issue our standard guidance, which is to build the kit as designed first. It makes troubleshooting much easier and doesn’t prevent you from making updates later. Building these non-standard also means our repair services are off the table (if it came to that).
It’s your kit and you’re free to do with it as you please, but our advice is to follow the manual - especially if it’s your first kit.
It’s your kit and you’re free to do with it as you please, but our advice is to follow the manual - especially if it’s your first kit.
pure love
Member
Me and my dad just got the idea to design our own top plate and move the power supply to a separate chassis, so yeah, :/ I wanted to buy a BeePre2 next year, but if I'm going to build my C2A as custom as I plan to, I might as well integrate the BeePre2 power supply together with the C2A's supply into the C2A chassis and move the BeePre2 internals together with the C2A internals into the BP2 chassis. It might be better to ask this in an email, but could I buy a BeePre2 kit without some of the components? I am replacing half of them with my own stuff anyway (tubes, sockets, wiring, feet, RCA jacks, top plate, IEC inlet, fuse, etc.). I basically only need wood, a power transformer, circuit boards, and some other stuff. Can I shoot you guys an email regarding this request?
pure love
Member
Thermioniclife
Member
I would not entertain that thought. First of all you will need space for 3 chassis, building 2 umbilical power cords and the amp and preamp will be married forever. Plus you may encounter noise or undesirable interactions between the 2 power supplies.
Doc B doesn’t own the company anymore, I do with my family. That scenario is not one we’re interested in. We sell kits and are not à la carte parts suppliers. The question isn’t whether we could do it, the question is whether we would. We don’t want to sell our products like that and so we are not going to.
pure love
Member
I would've thought that what I'm doing is the spirit of your kits, building your own and stuff. Unlucky me, I guess. Still, can I ask why you aren't interested (seeing as it is almost zero extra effort and you just save some parts)? Just curious.
There are a lot of ways to answer that question. Here are a few:
- Our warehouse staff is busy fulfilling orders that adhere to set bills of materials. Taking the time to sift through the bespoke order you submit requires substantially more time and effort to pick and pack.
- We do not individually sell most of the myriad parts in a kit, as you can tell by our site. This would require us to assess each component and add the appropriate markup. This is work we’d almost definitely never reuse.
- We would have absolutely no way of helping you once you received those parts.
pure love
Member
The picture I had in my head was more like your garage being filled with a bunch of components, and when somebody places an order, you go to your garage and put all the needed parts into a parcel. Apart from all this, what are your thoughts on this idea on a technical level?
I agree with Thermioniclife
pure love
Member
I've got enough space for two chassis. I would make custom cords anyway, joining the two forever is a plus in my eyes. I could just solder the BP2 RCA output wires to the C2A attenuators, leaving out all extra in/outputs. Easy peasy, no? You dont need to like my idea but I would be happy if you could tell me if it would work on a technical level and also not impact sound in a bad way which I am not aware of, at the end C2A + BP2 + upgrades is like 4k USD I payed you
I won’t be able to tell you whether it’ll work from a technical standpoint. That’s not my contribution to the company. PB or PJ might.
From what I’ve seen, though, you’re asking for a lot of advice and then ignoring it. If you want to spend the money on full kits to make it a reality, we are happy to sell it to you. As I mentioned, we will likely be unable to support you through the process since it deviates drastically from our designs.
From what I’ve seen, though, you’re asking for a lot of advice and then ignoring it. If you want to spend the money on full kits to make it a reality, we are happy to sell it to you. As I mentioned, we will likely be unable to support you through the process since it deviates drastically from our designs.
pure love
Member
Thank you very much for your time
What are you going to do when this ends up not working? We won't be able to help you, and any kind of tech support for an effort like this will consist of us telling you to build these kits in stock form so we can support the product. You are definitely welcome to do something like this, but it's best to post about it when you have it finished/working and you can talk about how you got it to work and the challenges you faced along the way (there will be many). To some degree, if you have the design skills to do something like this in the first place, then you could likely piece things together on your own without needing the support of a manual and an existing layout.
Doc B. once sold a partial kit back in the 90s, and he swore he'd never do it again (for good reasons), so there isn't anything inconsistent between the new owners and the old owners. Doc B. would also suggest that it's probably not a good idea to take two of our more complicated kits and repackage them in this manner with a whole host of non-stock parts.
I've had a lot of stuff like this brought to me over the years with the builder/current owner asking me how to get it to work, and most of the time what's been built would have to be completely deconstructed to end up being useful. Typically the ones that are salvageable are built on plywood as test prototypes and then built into a vinal version once the prototype is operating as expected (which is also often how we develop new products).
