Illuminated Rocker Switch For Bottlehead Kits?

[audiomaniac]

I was wondering if anybody knows of a drop in replacement illuminated rocker power switch for Bottlehead kits? More specifically for a Reduction kit that I just finished. With the tube shields on I can't see if the tubes are lit and I'm such a lame brain in my later years these days that I'm kind of worried about leaving it turned on by mistake after a late night listening session. Sure would be nice if the switch had a light indicator.

I found this online but I'm not sure about size or connections.

http://www.partsconnexion.com/product7515.html

Thanks,

John

 

[mcandmar]

Thats looks like a double width switch.  I think this one should fit ok http://www.mouser.ie/ProductDetail/CK-Components/DM64J72S205Q3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuMyV2FgkmEK2bXw3XVQL9QHBHLCoJnTRA%3d  but you will need to power the LED from the filament supply.

 

[audiomaniac]

Ah, I'll check it out, thanks. I'm curious though, it looks like it has three connections white the stock switch only has two. Is that because it's illuminated and how would I hook it up? Where exactly would I hook up to the filament supply? Obviously, I don't know much other than how to follow instructions!

 

[mr_jimmybob]

Hi, can anyone give some more detail on the way to wire an illuminated rocker switch with 3 pins?

Thank you.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Hi, can anyone give some more detail on the way to wire an illuminated rocker switch with 3 pins?

There isn't enough information in your inquiry to answer it.  Do you have a part number?

 

[caffeinator]

Here's an illuminated (neon) SPST switch which has three contacts - is this like the one you're considering?

See the schematic on page G92. The second row on the table shows the illuminated version.  It appears to me one would connect the hot in to terminal 1, the hot out to terminal 2, and terminal 3 to ground.  There is a 33kohm internal resistance (for the 125 VAC version) so that a few milliamps of current run through the neon lamp when the switch is in the on position.  I don't believe one needs to power the lamp using the filament supply; it appears to be powered by the switched supply.

I am curious if anyone happens to know if the neon lamp causes any noise, or if the illumination is too bright?

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/60/cm-1382695.pdf

 

[Paul Birkeland]

I would connect tab 3 to neutral.

That switch, though it would function correctly as a switch, would require a very different chassis hole.

 

[caffeinator]

There may be an illuminated switch that would fit the same cutout.

Another option might be to use a 'pilot light,' perhaps powered by the filament supply.  The linked item would use a 6 VAC supply.  Though it would require drilling a hole, it's another approach to consider.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Apem/Q14F3CXXR06EX0034?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhloMat53K0fgItD%252bRTcsZwBlSE2gegmwU4AtRCvtToTA%3d%3d

 

[Doc B]

Or, as I have been saying for 20 years, you could just look at the heaters glow.

 

[adeep42]

How about this. I've used it on other kits. You only need a few amps. Just add to a low amp spot and put in a resistor if amperage too high. Drill a small hole in any convenient spot.

https://www.tubedepot.com/products/red-snap-in-panel-mount-led

 

[Paul Birkeland]

The Reduction can also be left on without a whole lot of harm.  The 6922 generally has exceptional longevity.

 

[mr_jimmybob]

Hi again.

Here is some more information on what I have.

This is what I have bought and installed on my Crack 1.1:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Pcs-Yellow-3Pin-2Position-ON-OFF-SPST-With-lamp-Rocker-Switch-6A-250V-10A-125V/162211373361?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Good thing is that it fits perfectly in the Crack, but no details on how to wire it are given.

I have found wiring instructions on youtube, but they only cover how to conect it to DC (see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpcqgZaqTjk)

I will post my findings if any here for the benefit of others.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Those YouTube instructions are for a 12V switch and its associated installation.  The switch you bought it at least line rated, but rated for 120-240V operation.  You could try connecting the extra tab to AC neutral and see if it lights up.

 

[mr_jimmybob]

I have found a new video here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGtxPYHGxRk that explains the connections for AC.

I have followed the instructions and now have a funky illuminated rocker switch that actually lights up when turned on... not like before.

In retrospect, as Doc said, I find it kind of redundant and useless right now, but anyhoo.

I have attached some photos to try and help others do the same.

If you need any other information or help please let me know.

Have fun.

 

[adeep42]

Jimmybob, that's pretty cool. Would work nicely on my Eros where three of the four tubes are covered by shields.