First time DIYer Bottlehead Crack + Speedball. Need advice on solder materials

[sanadsaad]

Hi all! I am a first time DIYer and was wondering on what is the best solder to buy for the Bottlehead crack. My father's an engineer and has all the things at home but I wanted to know what is the best solder in the experienced DIYer's opinion for the crack kit. I have to goto Oman(Middle east) for a couple of months and my Crack+Speedball kit is in the mail (a big THANKS DAN and EILEEN!!). What parts do you think I should get for soldering? Some recommended a "Third hand"/PCB holder. Some said a "Lead free solder". I thought id ask here. I will update this thread with my build so I can keep asking for help(I will ask a lot probably!). Please help me build a parts list!
1. Solder (which one?)
2. Circuit board holder
3. Anything else?

Also, to connect the crack to my Laptop, what cable do I need to get? Thanks!

 

[Grainger49]

Welcome and you "have chosen well."  I've seen a lot of kits but never the standard of quality of manuals that Bottlehead has now set.  From what I have seen of the other kits sold today they wish they could produce the detailed, picture for each step manuals.

Ok, I am a fan, obviously.  Solder, any kind that is meant for electronics.  They should have a rosin core or need no flux.  Don't buy solder that has silver in it because it takes a long time to melt and you can burn up solid state devices (transistors and diodes).  

Take a look at this sticky thread for a list of basic and advanced tools:

http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,173.0.html

The "third hand" mentioned there can be used to hold a PCB.  But, honestly, you will be flipping them over so much it isn't worth the time except when soldering.  

Sorry but I'm no help on the type cable you need from a laptop.

 

[dwilli852]

Here's what I use for all my stuff. Radio Shack part number 64-005. It's .32 diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder. Get a good temp controlled iron and make sure the solder gets hot enough to flow correctly.

 

[jmv]

Welcome aboard!  I'll try to tackle your laptop question.  The first issue is what kind of outputs your laptop supplies.  I'm assuming you have music files stored on your harddrive.  You'll need to output them in a form the Crack can amplify.  Some people plug the amp directly into the headphone jack.  This requires you to use the laptop as the device to decode the audio files.  For most laptops, that's not a great choice.  Typically people use an external device, a DAC, to do a better job of conversion.  If you use an external DAC, it will probably connect to your laptop via a standard USB cable, and it will have standard RCA output jacks to connect to the Crack.

 

[earwaxxer]

Indeed welcome! As with the above. Try to use lead based solder. Much better to work with. Enjoy!

 

[Laudanum]

Yep, definitely dont use a lead free solder.  Especially being new to soldering.  As dwilli852 mentioned,  .032" 60/40 rosin core from Radio Shack will work fine.
See if you can get some practice soldering in.  Just something as simple as practice soldering wire to a terminal strip would be great for getting ready to build the Crack kit.  The PCB soldering is a little different but not difficult. Maybe, pick up one of the blank project/prototyping boards from Radio Shack ... # 276-150
An inexpensive "third hand" will help with the PCB's for the Speedball kit.  You dont have to get picky or spend a lot.  Something with a cast or weighted base or on of the suction cup bases isnt a bad idea.  Radio shack sells one as well but you can probably find one for less money elswhere. 
Do you have an iron?  A cheap pencil iron will work but a solder station with adjustable temperature is much better.  The Weller WC100 is probably the most popular, budget solder station.  About $40 - $50.  But I know that Parts Express sells a cheap station with adjustable temperature for under $15 that gets good reviews.  Probably not the quality of the Weller but if money is tight, I'd opt for it over a non adjustable pencil iron.  A search of Parts Express website should turn it up.  Sorry, I dont know the brand or model.

Good luck and you'll get all the help you need here.
 

 

[Mr. Davis]

Here are some tutorials on basic soldering equipment and techniques.  This is where I learned the basics....

http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/

 

[sanadsaad]

Thanks a lot guys! Been busy watching the tutorials and hunting for supplies Im sorry I didnt mention that I live in UK(shifted here 4 months ago). Ive seen a store called Maplin over here. And here's what they have on offer for soldering:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?criteria=solder+iron

Maybe any UK member could guide me on where to get the good stuff? The Crack is still in San Fran according to the USPS tracker. Should be here in a couple of days though. I'll go look for solder to take with me to Oman. My dad has some old PCBs lying around that I could practice on. Then i'll get CRACKin on the amp!! Thanks again for the advice. DIY is pretty fun!!

 

[Laudanum]

Im not in the UK but if you dont want to spend much, that adjustable station for 14.99 would be my choice over a non-adjustable pencil iron.  Assuming it's half way decent of course.  The LCD readout units at around 49.00 are better, Im sure, but dont know anything about the brands or their quality. 
Biggest potential issue that I see is that all the solder on the site you linked is lead free.  If you can find a lead based solder, do so.  But Im thinking that leaded solder may be banned in the UK.  It certainly is for plumbing and for manufactured electronics.  May be banned for purchase outright but I could very well be wrong.  If all you can get is lead free Im sure there are some members here who have used it and can help. 

 

[gh0st]

You can get leaded solder in the UK, just don't expect your amp to be RoHS compliant I'd echo the sentiment about leaded solder, I get cardas quad eutectic on eBay and find it very easy to work with, pcbs included. /dom

 

[sanadsaad]

I'll place an order for the Cardas solder. What about this soldering iron:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-Soldering-Iron-Station-48W/dp/B003TO0QX0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_diy_7

 

[Laudanum]

I dont know the Silverline brand but the solder station should work fine.   Just watch the solder diameter for whatever solder you decide to buy.   I use Kester eutetic (63/37) .031" diameter for most things.  I use a smaller diameter solder for PCB's with real small through holes.    But .027 - .032  should work well as a general use solder and be fine with both the terminal wiring and the Speedball PCB.  

 

[patm]

Sanadsaad,

Welcome to the BH community. Beleave me this forum will come up with any answers you need. With my knowledge of electronics, there is no way I could be involved in this hobby at this level without them.

I just traveled the path of what to feed my crack. This started out as a bedroom system but has lead to some amazing discoverys. I started out using my MacBook 13" 2 gig ram as a source. I soon wanted more, skips and halts and thin sound. I got a Halide DAC HD USB DAC (recommended by someone on this forem who's name I don't rember). This improved the quality of the music but I was still left wit the buffering issues.

I read here and elsewhere about what a great music server the macmini was. I owned one and ended up swapping the roles of the two computers. The music just seemed more important than the computing. So the laptop is now my desktop and the macmini is my music server. What a huge difference. The sound is deep and clean (I am afraid I lack the vocabulary to describe what I here but I will give it a shot) The old adage comes to mind, "I here stuff I never heard before". The frequency response is linear. Listened for a few weeks and then installed the speedball. Another huge leap in sound quality. I listen with senn hd 650 and I have rolled in a TS 5998 and an Amprex 12au7. The crack is now my top sounding system. I hope that changes when my Orca,s and Sub,s arrive but we will see. Now my Delma is what to do about the music server situation. I want to use the mini in my main system and it sounds so much better that the Regga cd player that it will replace, what to use with the crack.

I hope this ramble will be of some help as you move forward.

Pat

 

[2wo]

I am not seen that brand but it looks OK, If you get it go for one of the cheaper helping hands. not essential, but very handy...John 

 

[Mosez]

Thanks for the Cardas Quad suggestion. I just ordered some of off eBay.

With regards to the 'helping hands' discussion; I very munch like the vises from Pananvise. They're modular, and bases and attachments can be mixed and matched to your hearts content. They're also not cheap, so if you're on a budget...

 

[Laudanum]

My favorite "cheap" helping hands unit has a single pair of "tweezers" on a ball and socket arrangment and a cast base.  I love it for holding wire and cable or connectors while soldering.  It will also work for small circuit boards but for those I like the double alligator clip units (also a cheap unit).  I slide a short length of silicone tubing over each of the alligator clip jaws to keep them from gouging or marring the boards.  Better units are, well better.  The Panavise is a good suggestion if you want to spend the money.  But my cheap ebay helpers have done the trick, I have no complaints. 

 

[Grainger49]

Mosez,

The helping hands can be had for $3-$5.  The Panavise, as you say, is more.  That is why the helping hands is the first suggested.

 

[Mosez]

Mosez,

The helping hands can be had for $3-$5.  The Panavise, as you say, is more.  That is why the helping hands is the first suggested.

Yup - expect to pay 10 - 15 times as much for a Panavise setup. I've been using the helping hands for years before I recently splurged for a Panavise, and I still use he hands for things like grabbing wires. Another advantage of the hands is that you can work 'low', resting your wrists on the workbench (or kitchen table). For PCBs though, I prefer the vise - especially bigger boards.That and roll of painters tape.

 

[sanadsaad]

Ok so lets finalize a list. What do I absolutely need for building the Crack? Here's what I have come up with:

Solder iron:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-Soldering-Iron-Station-48W/dp/B003TO0QX0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_diy_7

Solder:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CARDAS-QUAD-EUTECTIC-SOLDER-3-5M-LENGTH-FOR-HI-FI-CABLE-/180510196322?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cable_Terminations&hash=item2a073f0262

Helping hand:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bresser-7890001-Magnifier-Third-Hand/dp/B004QIDD9C/ref=sr_1_15?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1342456169&sr=1-15

I already have a multimeter.

Lets add stuff and come up with a good budget setup that I can take home and get started. My max budget is

 

[Laudanum]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-Tools-60335-Helping-Magnifying/dp/B001BMSBD4/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1342613802&sr=1-1

The Cardas is great solder, easy to work with and you should have plenty with the 3.5 meters you listed as long as you arent planning on doing a ton of solder practice with it.