First Time Crack Builder Need Assistance [solved]

[prtuc2]

Hello Everyone,
                   
This is my first post in the forum. I just received my BH Crack Kit yesterday and started to install the kit, however, running into a little problem here.  On the instruction manual page 18 and page 19, according to the picture and instructions provided the Octal socket B terminal suppose to have a upper and lower hole compartment where as my kit only has one big hole compartment.  Not sure should I proceed the upper and lower wiring going into the same hole or I got a wrong part?

Thanks in advance,
Gary

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Hello Gary,

Yes, there are indeed some parts variations occasionally that are required to keep units moving out the door.

Luckily, only B7/B8 have more than one wire connected to them.  What you can do is to make the first set of connections, then just use a tiny bit of solder on them, then make the second connection.

As always, less is more with soldering.  I recommend not attempting to "fill holes" while you build.  The ideal amount of solder will fill in the space between the wire and what you have it wrapped around, and not much more. 

-PB

 

[prtuc2]

Thank you PB for the quick reply, for a first time builder I will try my best to avoid over-saturated the hole with solder  :'(. 

 

[prtuc2]

Another quick question on page 19 where it say solder A4 and A5, but mine looks like it is molded together. 

Is that going to be problematic?  Thanks again everyone.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

If the solder lugs are soldered together, when you to go stick a tube in, the pins will have a hard time going into the socket.  Do your best to move those apart with your pliers.

Also, on the black wire going to A9, that is loads more than 1/4" (6mm) of insulation stripped off.  I would remove that wire, trim the wire so that only 1/4" of bare wire is exposed, then reattach it.

As it is now, the wire going to A9 could end up jostling into A1, which would immediately blow your fuse if the Crack was powered on.

 

[prtuc2]

Thanks once again PB, now I got more problems.  On page 19 it said to connected black wire from terminal 4 to terminal 22L, however I read the red text so I connect the black wire from terminal 4 to terminal 14U.  Now 22L is completely free of wire is that right?

Second part of the problem is that my resistance value kind of confusing.
All the * values terminal I got OL as reading on my multimeter, according to the manual zero is no good.  My terminal 13 also shown OL instead of 270k ohms which means I probably going to resolder that terminal.  One last problem I can't find the center pin for the RCA jacks so I can't obtain a value.

Thanks for the help once again.

 

[Grainger49]

There is a note somewhere in the checkout that different meters will act differently on the terminals marked with *. 

Many meters read "OL" for these points.  That means it is too high to measure.  So you have good readings there.

There should be a resistor from terminal 13 to terminal 12.  It should give the 270k Ohm reading.  So touch up both 12 and 13.

The center pins of the RCA jacks are where the red and white wires that go to the volume control come from.  They are at the right back corner.

 

[prtuc2]

Thanks Grainger49 for your input, but I am still not sure of the RCA center pins so I upload a picture maybe that can clarify better.

 

[Grainger49]

Yes!  That is what is meant by center pins.  Be certain that the solder on the center pin doesn't touch the outer part of it.  There is a white (?) insulator between the center and outer conductors.

 

[prtuc2]

On page 11 of the manual there is a pointer say there is a white washer located between the each side of the chassis, unless I did it wrong?

 

[prtuc2]

Am I suppose to get 90-100K ohms on both side? I only got 103K ohms from the red RCA side and the white RCA I got 0 resistance.

 

[Grainger49]

The white RCA is shorted as I warned above.  Any resistance reading or voltage reading is considered within specification as long as it is plus or minus 15% of the stated value.

So 103k Ohms is right on target.

Now you need to find the short in the left (white) channel.  It will probably be on the RCA jack.  Possibly at the volume control.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

From the photos, it looks possible that the left jack is shorted due to the excess solder.

You will want to check that with a meter to be sure.  Measure from your solder blob to the lower part of the jack that is soldered to the black wire.

You should see 90-110K here.

 

[prtuc2]

I remove the solder and now it measure to 99k Ohms, now I am struck at the voltage instruction.

Clip the fuse into the fuse cover and insert the cover into the power entry module

Assuming the little silver/white little tube with a filament inside is the fuse? Not sure how I can fit it into the power entry module without damaging it.  Any pictures or video instructions would be greatly appreciate.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Part of the power entry module slides out.  If you look at the back of the module, you'll see a hole where you can use a small screw driver to press this part out.

On the top side, there is a little engraving of a fuse on this part, and a flat head screw driver can be used to pry it out. 

 

[prtuc2]

The amplifier doesn't start up at all and now I am puzzle.  All the resistance values are within 10-15% and I follow all the steps on the voltage check before plugging into anything.  No smoke or it seems no current is running through the amp, tubes and any parts of the amp does not get warm at all.

 

[fullheadofnothing]

The fuse needs to be in the lower section of the fuse holder. Is that where you installed it?

 

[Chris65]

As shown here:

 

[prtuc2]

Thanks, that was the problem I install the fuse in the upper compartment.  Now everything powers on, but my voltage reading left me worry.

Most of the 90V reading I got somewhere between 70-72.5V that is outside of the 15% range, but my B1 reading start off at 1.8V now slowly climbing to 6V as I type is that sign of bad soldering? The reading move very slow.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

T1/T5 being in the 70's is just a sign of a very strong 12AU7, and is not a problem.

B1 connects to T1, you won't get 70V on T1 without 70V on B1 unless there is a miswire, or potentially if you have mounted the 8 pin socket with the keyway facing an improper direction.

-PB