With or without the tube the measurement was the same. Resistance value varied like a capacitor was in circuit but averaged between 30K - 40K. Resistance shot down when I reversed the leads but would eventually begin to rise.
This sure is an odd one. Can you measure the resistance of the 22.1K resistor across terminals 4 and 5? You should be able to do this with it soldered into the circuit (with the amp off of course).
Either the 22.1K resistor is open, or there's some bizarre short in the circuit that I can't see that's pulling the voltage at T5 down.
The resistance across t4 and 5 measures 22.1k. I also measured the resistance from t5 to ground with the 12AU7 in place; this measured similarly to the A1 to A2, as if a cap is in circuit.
After work today I will recheck all wiring and see if I made a mistake somewhere that I missed the first time I checked.
I borrowed a better meter and performed resistance checks. T1 to ground and t5 to ground are basically the same starting at 30k and going up until I remove the leads. If I reverse the leads the circuit reads short. If I leave the reversed leads on points the the resistance will eventually climb as before leads were reversed.
Last night I did a thorough visual check of the wiring on my Crack. I see no discrepancies. Have to admit it is a easier now that I'm familiar with the thing.
After checking and measuring voltages again I decided to resolder the 22.1K resistor at t4 and t5. Voltages remained the same after touch up. T4 224VDC and T5 8VDC.
Wish there was one of those head scratching emoticons.
Reinstalled the resistor and measured 22.2k ohms from B5 to A1. I used these points to ensure I wasn't moving any part of the resistor's connection. I then measured voltage at T5 and it was 9VDC. This measurement was with the 12AU7 in place and without the 6080 installed.
Voltage at T1 is 90VDC. The other side of tube seems to be working fine.
With no tubes installed I get 236VDC at T21 and 230.6VDC at T2. I'm heating up the soldering iron now and will get back in a minute or two.
Thanks for the assist.
Hmm, OK, those voltages indicate 11mA of current draw with no tubes installed. I bet if you remove the 22.1K resistor between 4 and 5, you'll discover that your voltage at T2 will pop up a bit.
I'm still suspecting a short around the socket. It may be debris in there, look for something touching A1 that shouldn't.
Swapping the resistors did not help. But I read your last response and went back and checked the tube sockets. I saw no issues but did wiggle them about and blew some air at them.
I then checked voltages and no longer had the drain at T5!!!
I plugged in the 12AU7 and both LEDs lit!!!
I'm going to give the tube sockets a thorough cleaning and try it out.
Another plus: with all this turning on and off and measuring voltage and resistance, I have yet to shock myself!
Thanks for the help and please let me know if there is something I should do before proceeding.
Yeah, we may never know what was stuck in there, but I'm glad the drain is gone. The sockets are two pieces of ceramic that are riveted together, and it's possible that something worked its way in there.
In any event, if all your voltages look good, go ahead and give it a listen!
IT SOUNDS WONDERFUL!!!
Seriously, no hiss, no hum, k.d. lang never sounded so good. With the music on pause I maxed the volume and still heard nothing but silence.
Thanks again for your help Paul. You can relax for a little while as I'm going to listen like this for a couple weeks before building the Speedball...We'll see how patient I am.