Drained batteries in an unused Quickie

PassionForSound

New member
Hi all,

I've gone to use my Quickie today after not using it for ages and the sound is only just audible so I'm assuming the batteries have run down. The Quickie was definitely off (and has been for quite a number of months) so is this normal or do I need to be checking for a wiring fault that would have drained my batteries?
 
It shouldn't, are you sure the issue is low voltage?  If you have a multimeter handy check the middle two terminals of the 9v batterys to see what your getting from the four, if its less then 30v check each battery on its own and see what readings you get from them.
 
I found that batteries from a certain vendor whose logo sort of looks like a red copyright symbol will do this. 

Initially, I thought it might be some property of the Quickie, but I had a brand new battery that had a few minutes of use that I then disconnected and set on a shelf go bad in a matter of weeks.

These same batteries also died in the electronic combination lock on my safe in about 10 days, where an actual alkaline goes for about a year.

I'm not sure what batteries you have, but I thought I'd mention it. 
 
Thanks all. I'll test and respond.

The battery brand is a semi-generic one called "Chevron". The batteries are alkaline (although I don't know which chemistry is preferable with batteries)

Perhaps I'll try rechargeables or a more reputable single-use option if these test poorly.
 
A well-made alkaline will hold its charge for a decade.

Watch out for "heavy-duty" batteries, which is a term that really means it's the obsolete carbon-zinc technology; they are heavier-duty that the ones made in the thirties but still crap by modern standards.

Buy batteries that are fresh - off-brand and off-price are probably either not what they say, or so old that they have become unreliable. Find a place that has high turnover of brand-name batteries. I like Costco because they discontinue anything they don't sell mass quantities of!
 
I measured the 9V and they all varied from around -1V (yes, negative voltage!!??) to about 1.4V

The D-Cells seem to be fine (all at 1.4V) so I'm guessing that I just bought crappy batteries...
 
Yeah, I just went downstairs to pop open the old safe, and it wouldn't open for me.  I then remember that I put the last of those crappy 9V batteries I had in there a month ago, and sure enough that battery was already toast!
 
I've had an odd failure with a set of Duracells so even the big brands aren't immune.  I noticed the Quickie was distorting and it measured ~22v, on closer inspection i had three batteries at 7.5v and one measuring .001v.
 
Don't get me started about battery locks on gun safes. The ultimate way to make sure nobody gets at your firearms, including you.
 
mcandmar said:
I've had an odd failure with a set of Duracells so even the big brands aren't immune.  I noticed the Quickie was distorting and it measured ~22v, on closer inspection i had three batteries at 7.5v and one measuring .001v.

Of the three remaining Duracells sitting on the shelf one of them just went BANG right next to me, it literally blew up all on its own.  I measured the other two and they were at 6.5v....6.4.....6.3....6.2 .....no longer in the house.    Never thought i would be afraid of a 9v battery!
 
Exploding Duracells sounds bad.  I would expect the batch was bad with some internal short from + to -. 

I think you should contact them, Duracell, about this.
 
I just had a battery experience with my Quickie/PJCCS.

I had been listening reasonably regularly, and had been noticing more noise than usual, more microphonics.  I thought the tubes were going off perhaps.  So one evening I decide to try some new-to-me tubes in the Quickie.

When I powered back up there was a fairly loud hum/buzz in both channels.  I thought I'd busted it.  Looked around, found one fragile joint and resoldered.  No difference.

I finally got around to measuring voltages - none was right.  So I checked the batteries - of the four Energizer 9v two were around 2.3v and the other two were negative values.  Today I popped in a new set of 9v (the D cells were 1.4v so I left them) and the voltages are all good again.  Fired up the amps and it's totally back to normal.

Whew.  ;D
 
The experience I keep having is that the electric lock on my safe is constantly dead.  I will have to order some made in USA Duracell 9Vs shortly!
 
At Costco last week (I've reported their prices off and on here) I saw they now have Duracell batteries "made in the USA from imported components". Only their high-end super model is "made in the USA." No idea what the reliability of the imported components might be...
 
In my experience they go bang.  Here is another i found in a cable tester in work, it too had gone bad and built up enough pressure to pop the end caps out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7634.JPG
    IMG_7634.JPG
    739.1 KB · Views: 123
Regardless of what should make sense, I plan to install separate switches for a custom Q that I will be building sometime in the future. I have had the same battery issues noted above, so it is no problem for me just use a couple of Frankenstein switches for the job.
 
Dave,

The list can get long and varied. Maybe I will shoot for the "ultimate Q". If so, then the battery compliment would have it's own enclosure and I would be able to use larger rechargeable batteries. I want to have some extra room in the chassis, only to make it easier for my less than delicate fingers. I almost always opt for the RCA connectors of my choice, as well as a stepped attenuator. That is where there is a turn in my thinking. The Q acts well as a buffer for source components, so the stepped attenuator would be more limited, acting less as a volume control and more about matching it's output to the gain of my integrated amp to begin with. In other words, the Q may be purposely limited at both ends of it's attenuation/gain.
All in all, I usually find myself changing out almost every part of the kit for expensive and higher quality parts.

  Having said all of this, the BH kit one step up the ladder (can't recall the name, but it is DHT with an AC power supply), is calling my name.
 
4Krow,

That does sound like a fair amount of work to put together something like that.  The Smash looks pretty nice, I think the differences between that and the Quickie are that it has multiple preamp outs, different output tubes, ac power, and was around $400, so a pretty good deal overall.  Its still DHT too.  There might even be a few more inputs.

Dave
 
I've had three sets of Duracells drain down to below 7 (and yes some read negative) with the quickie turned off. I've taken the quickie out of the chain until I find a solution.  In fact, the 3rd set was while the quickie was disconnected from everything (and off).

Perhaps the easiest solution is not to use Duracell?

Another solution is lead-acid batteries. Would 3 of these or similar work well:
http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-2023-Sealed-Lead-Battery/dp/B007HGHUMG

Thanks!
 
Back
Top