Crack assembling issue

[ztsen]

there are kit as below:

( ) 2- #8 round lockwasher (large)
( ) 2- #6 round lockwasher (small)

2 x #8 round lockwasher used for safety ground
1 x #6 round lockwasher used for the 9 pin socket

but look like i need a #8 round lockwasher for the transformer. the remaining #6 lockwasher doesnt seem fit...

anyone can help?



how's you guys do for this?

 

[ztsen]

The original position of the power entry very close to the transformer if using my audio-gd power cord it will touch the transformer. Is it ok to reverse the position?

 

[ironbut]

I didn't use any lockwashers on the very top of the transformer. The order of parts going from top down is;
screw
bell end
star washer
transformer
nylon inserts
chassis plate
fiber washers
terminal strips
locking nuts

I don't think the position of the IEC/fuse holder would matter. Just be sure and wire it up right.

BTW Any chance you have one of the early kits?

 

[ztsen]

I didn't use any lockwashers on the very top of the transformer. The order of parts going from top down is;
screw
bell end
star washer
transformer
nylon inserts
chassis plate
fiber washers
terminal strips
locking nuts

I don't think the position of the IEC/fuse holder would matter. Just be sure and wire it up right.

BTW Any chance you have one of the early kits?

How do I know if it is early kits?

 

[ironbut]

I'm just referring to the first run of the Crack kits. The second run had some corrections in the assembly section.
http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,657.0.html

 

[Grainger49]

ztsen,

Obviously there was a miscount in your kit's packing.  The #6 lockwasher not fitting on a larger screw is normal.  Either call the Queen at (206) 451- 4275 today or buy one at an Ace hardware for 6 cents.  The Queen will mail one to you.  If I were you I would just go buy one.  Home Depot doesn't sell them except in bags but still that will get you assembled.  The lock washer is something that you can put on later but you do want to have it.  It keeps the nut at the end tight.

As for the power cord touching the transformer it depends on your power cord.  The transformer will get HOT.  If you chose to use an aftermarket chord that dresses differently than the Bottlehead cord then you need to verify that the cord will withstand the heat it will encounter.  Hopefully PJ will chime in and tell you how hot the end bell will be in normal operation.

 

[ztsen]

i just leave the transformer wihout the extra lockwasher. I tried few home fix also dont have that kind  #8 lockwasher.

I get all assembled. check the ohm. But cant get the tube light up. fuse also no blow. Anything I should take note?

I will try check all wire again tomorrow.

 

[ztsen]

I checked the wire, again few times. The tube just doesnt light up and fuse also ok. Anyone can help?

Is the 240V transformer same connection as the US voltage transformer?

 

[JC]

Are you certain?  Tubes are not very bright, and you may not see them in ambient light.  Back in the good old days, radios and TVs were always in a dark wooden cabinet, so the tubes were easy to see.

If your resistance checks (Ohms) are OK, and you are not blowing fuses, perhaps it would be good to check Voltages.  If you measure the correct Voltages everywhere, you should be good.

 

[ztsen]

Are you certain?  Tubes are not very bright, and you may not see them in ambient light.  Back in the good old days, radios and TVs were always in a dark wooden cabinet, so the tubes were easy to see.

If your resistance checks (Ohms) are OK, and you are not blowing fuses, perhaps it would be good to check Voltages.  If you measure the correct Voltages everywhere, you should be good.

My resistance chk is ok. I try to dim the room light but I dont spot any light from the tube. And the tube is totally cold. Really good to go for voltage check?

 

[ztsen]

Are you certain?  Tubes are not very bright, and you may not see them in ambient light.  Back in the good old days, radios and TVs were always in a dark wooden cabinet, so the tubes were easy to see.

If your resistance checks (Ohms) are OK, and you are not blowing fuses, perhaps it would be good to check Voltages.  If you measure the correct Voltages everywhere, you should be good.

Thanks a lot!

I off all my room light, and wait more than 10 seconds...  and "let there be light"...
Coz the manual said few seconds no light turn it off. Actually the tube need a bit more time to light up and must be total dark to spot it.

 

[JC]

I think it is the next logical step.  Resistance checks may indicate if something is defective or incorrectly wired.  The fuse is there to keep things from burning up if something is defective or incorrectly wired.

If both of those are OK, at least we know it is probably safe to proceed to Voltage checks without fear that something may be damaged by powering up the amp.  The Voltage checks will tell you more.

Edit:  Oh, good, I see you were posting above while I was writing!  Let us know how the Voltage checks go!

 

[ztsen]

I think it is the next logical step.  Resistance checks may indicate if something is defective or incorrectly wired.  The fuse is there to keep things from burning up if something is defective or incorrectly wired.

If both of those are OK, at least we know it is probably safe to proceed to Voltage checks without fear that something may be damaged by powering up the amp.  The Voltage checks will tell you more.

Thanks for the advice. Its really help for a beginner like me. 

 

[JC]

You are most welcome.

In the very early days of tubes, often-times more of the filament was visible.  In later tubes, the heaters(filaments) were almost all enclosed by the cathode structure, so not much light escapes.

Good luck with your Voltage checks; follow all precautions listed in the manual!  Pay particular attention that your meter probes touch only what they are supposed to.

 

[ztsen]

My Crack finally works!

But my voltage check...  most of the terminal suppose to be 0, yet I still have reading..  0.x V  or -0.x V
my terminal 6 even worst, jumping between 10v to -10v ...  is that a loose solder joint symptom?

 

[Grainger49]

The readings you get instead of zero are a function of your meter.  It is still right.  Have you checked to see that the batteries in your meter are fresh?  Sometimes that causes odd readings. 

Also, be certain that you are measuring on AC and DC as indicated in the manual.  Only a few measurements are AC, the rest are DC.

 

[Grainger49]

The readings you get instead of zero are a function of your meter.  It is still right.  Have you checked to see that the batteries in your meter are fresh?  Sometimes that causes odd readings. 

Also, be certain that you are measuring on AC and DC as indicated in the manual.  Only a few measurements are AC, the rest are DC.

 

[ztsen]

I use a Sanwa Digital Multimeter CD800a. I just turn to voltage and check. I think should be auto ac/dc, am I right? too new to electronic thingy...

 

[ztsen]

How long is the Crack need to burn in?

I tried with ipod but it sounds thin, maybe impedance miss match.

So I tried with CA 840c CDP, it much fuller. My initial impression without burn in much as below:

What I like: Wide soundstage, very focus vocal, smooth, quiet
What I not prefer: high roll off or just dont extend, slight sibilance (maybe too use to Stax), bass dont go low, too much mid for me.

 

[Grainger49]

I use a Sanwa Digital Multimeter CD800a. I just turn to voltage and check. I think should be auto ac/dc, am I right? too new to electronic thingy...

I am not familiar with your meter.  It seems that a number of meters now only have a voltage scale and indicate whether it is AC or DC when measuring.  Look at the display and see.