Bee 2 Quiet/C4S voltage check question

[goaliedad39]

I am currently installing the Bee Two Quiet/C4S upgrade into my BeePre 2.  Currently have installed the C4S board and doing voltage checks.  Voltages at terminals 1 and 11 are supposed to be approx 150 VDC.  Mine are reading 188 VDC.  Terminals 6 and 16 are supposed to be 95-125 VDC.  Mine are reading 185 VDC.  Is this OK?  If not, suggestions as to the issue and how to fix?  Thanks

 

[Paul Birkeland]

What are the DC voltages at pins 1 and 4 on the 4 pin socket? 

Often an issue like this is from insufficiently heated solder joints on the PC board (though I don't recommend reflowing the joints that hold the LEDs, as the LEDs take very little heat to solder properly).

 

[goaliedad39]

Voltage at A1 = 11VDC
                  A4 = 6.1VDC
                  B1 = 12.3VDC
                  B2 = 7.5 VDC

 

[goaliedad39]

What are the DC voltages at pins 1 and 4 on the 4 pin socket? 

Often an issue like this is from insufficiently heated solder joints on the PC board (though I don't recommend reflowing the joints that hold the LEDs, as the LEDs take very little heat to solder properly).

Voltage at A1 = 11VDC
                  A4 = 6.1VDC
                  B1 = 12.3VDC
                  B2 = 7.5 VDC

 

[Paul Birkeland]

This is almost certainly insufficiently heated solder joints on the C4S board.  You can leave the solder joints for the LEDs alone, but I would reheat the rest of the joints, and give a substantial amount of extra heat to the center leg of each MJE5731A.

 

[goaliedad39]

This is almost certainly insufficiently heated solder joints on the C4S board.  You can leave the solder joints for the LEDs alone, but I would reheat the rest of the joints, and give a substantial amount of extra heat to the center leg of each MJE5731A.

Hi Paul, I did as suggested and re-did all the solder joints, skipping the LED's and I get essentially the same voltages.  At this point would you suggest I remove the LED's, purchase and replace with new ones?

 

[Jameson]

Often the LEDs aren't the problem even if they're not lighting up. I'd post some photos of the board. We very often see cold solder joints as the major issue, and as Paul said, the LEDs don't take much to get right.

 

[goaliedad39]

Often the LEDs aren't the problem even if they're not lighting up. I'd post some photos of the board. We very often see cold solder joints as the major issue, and as Paul said, the LEDs don't take much to get right.

Here is a photo of the back side of the populated board.  Dark areas are caused by the Solder Wick Remover.  Hopefully photo is clear enough.  I should also say that I did double check all the wire leads for cold joints and re-soldered all those joints.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Could I see what the top side of the board looks like from some different angles?

Definitely do not replace the LEDs.

 

[dth31]

Some advice FWIW.  Buy a solder sucker/solder pump.
https://mm.digikey.com/Volume0/opasdata/d220001/derivates/1/003/218/417/MFG_FIT0216_sml%28200x200%29.jpg

I tried using solder wick for years and it was nothing but frustrating for me. A solder sucker totally made desoldering SO much easier and way more effective in a fraction of the time.

But maybe you’re way better with solder wick than I was!

 

[goaliedad39]

Could I see what the top side of the board looks like from some different angles?

Definitely do not replace the LEDs.

Hopefully these are clear enough.  Thanks.

 

[Paul Birkeland]

Turn your soldering iron all the way up, hold it on each MJE5731A joint, add a little solder, count to 10, then remove the iron.  Repeat for all MJE5731A joints.