Any advantage to replacing PS resistors with chokes?

Dr. Toobz said:
Am I correct in that at least electrically, the benefit of a choke in the PS is twofold: a) greater isolation of supply-related noise from the output signal, and b) the ability of the inductor to hold electrons in its magnetic field, which would indicate the potential for reserve capacity when the amp "asks" for more juice during a loud transient? The Triad choke is cheap, so I might try one out as well. I have to say, though, the Crack is already near perfection as-is, between the Speedball, good tubes (including the E80cc in the driver's seat) and film capacitors in the output position (previously, large-value electrolytics bypassed with small films - but I've recently given up on using AKG's with this amp and will just stick to Senns).

Hi Dr. Toobz - I know its a bit off topic, but you mentioned switching out the electrolytics for films - curious as to what size films you used and what effect it had. Thanks much.
 
Shortly after building the Crack I replaced the last 270ohm resistor in the PS with the Triad choke. There was an improvement, not earth shaking though. It brightened up the top end most notably, and considering I listen with HD 650s was a welcome change. Replaced the last 220uf cap in the PS with a Mundorf mkp, not sure that was worth the expense, replacing the 100uf output lytics with Mundorf film caps was a definite improvement. The Triad choke is less than 20 bucks, so imo it's a no brainer.

Cheers,
Shawn
 
I have to order some things from Mouser and Angela Instruments for my Stereomour kit before I move to the wiring stage, so I'm still debating whether I should pick up the Triad choke while I'm at it and replace the first PS resistor in the Crack. Problem is, I don't see how this is going to be worth it - the amp is now absolutely dead silent with the 6CG7, shielded heater wiring, grounded center shield (pin 9), upgraded, non-metallic pot (Alps), and this is even with the pot wide open. It's so quiet that I have to look over at it to know if it is on. Plus, I have the Speedball boards, which no doubt contribute to the quiet, effortless sound. So, what would the choke really accomplish at this point?
 
You're right. I'm not even going to do a speedball upgrade on mine (for now).
BTW, what upgrades/parts are you trying to put in your Stereomour? I'm expecting a Stereomour next month. I already have a Mundorf silver oil parafeed and coupling caps.
Good luck on your build. I think a choke is more useful on the Stereomour but the problem is where to install them.
 
jimiclow said:
You're right. I'm not even going to do a speedball upgrade on mine (for now).
BTW, what upgrades/parts are you trying to put in your Stereomour? I'm expecting a Stereomour next month. I already have a Mundorf silver oil parafeed and coupling caps.
Good luck on your build. I think a choke is more useful on the Stereomour but the problem is where to install them.

Nothing fancy - just a better potentiometer, different output capacitors, and two stereo 1/4" jacks, to allow me to squeeze a sub or headphone amp output in there without losing the third input or drilling extra holes in the plate. I also ordered a red nut for one of the jacks, to differentiate the output jack from input.

Since the parts I ordered weighed all of four or five ounces and made the shipping cost kind of ridiculous for such a small parcel, I went ahead and grabbed a Triad choke while I was at it. I will report back any improvements to the Crack once it's installed.
 
Noskipallwd said:
Shortly after building the Crack I replaced the last 270ohm resistor in the PS with the Triad choke.
HI, Does it matter which wire goes to which terminal? I'm thinking no but...
 
Sorry, I just noticed your post, Grainger is right about the dot. Unfortunately I can't remember if it had one, I will take a look in the morning when I get home.

Cheers,
Shawn
 
You test the capacitance between each wire and the core. Usually, you want the higher capacitance farther away from the plate of your tube. I think that's right.

Michael
 
Michael,

Thanks, so lowest capacitance (should be the dot) toward the plate/high voltage.

I will dot my Triad for the Eros today!

Edit:  the higher capacitance was on the left hand lead so the dot and wire on the right go to the second capacitor in the power supply, closer to the plate.
 
Thanks for the info, Triad's docs don't mention that at all. I got the crack right by chance, need to check the Eros. I'm a little burnt-out, just got home. We had to evacuate all of our patients at the hospital due to the Waldo canyon wildfire. I got out just before they closed the highway. They believe the fire was arson, just don't understand people like that.

Cheers,
Shawn
 
OK, here's a question for those of you who have already installed the Triad choke: where did you find standoffs with a sufficient diameter to connect to the bolts holding down the power transformer? Nothing I have on hand seems to be the correct gauge.
 
Dr. Toobz said:
OK, here's a question for those of you who have already installed the Triad choke: where did you find standoffs with a sufficient diameter to connect to the bolts holding down the power transformer? Nothing I have on hand seems to be the correct gauge.

Mouser.com

6-32 screw  http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=8420virtualkey53400000virtualkey534-8420

8-32 screw  http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/8433/?qs=1eFRaVyeUDVBTujGLm7s9OVyuZjjX5tpZdrvxESCFCw%3d
 
Thanks! The Crack manual states that the screws holding down the power transformer are #8-32, so I'll go with the #8 standoffs listed at Mouser. Too bad these aren't available at Home Depot or something - it stinks to pay so much shipping for such little parcels.
 
Find the manufacturer's part number and order it from Digi-Key.  They offer a first class mail option for just a few dollars.
 
Great idea - I completely forgot about DigiKey! I've ordered things from them in the past via USPS.

Here's the link for the same part at DigiKey: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=keystone+8433
 
Despite not yet having the standoffs to mount the choke, I did install it in place of the first 270 ohm resistor, and simply set it behind the amp until the hardware arrives. Now, I'll admit to not really knowing how this is possible, but the choke definitely does improve the amp. Is it a gigantic improvement? Not really, but it is definitely noticeable.

The first thing I noticed is that bass notes are a bit deeper and more solid, yet not as forward in the soundstage. I can actually hear a bass note and its harmonics (or the strings vibrating, etc) rather than just a low tone or rumble, which is perhaps the biggest change. The bass actually is detailed and tuneful. Secondly, the soundstage has opened up a bit. Perhaps as a result, I noticed that things are a bit better balanced, in that the amp paradoxically seems less bright while revealing more tiny details in some songs (background noises, fingernails on strings, etc). Loud transients are now less startling and very smooth, almost effortless. The sound is even more natural than before. Finally, the leading edge of transients seems to be ever so slightly better defined, again without making the amp sound sharp or treble-heavy.

In short, a good upgrade, and likely my last! When an amp is so good that you forget you are wearing headphones, I don't know how much better things could get. This is definitely a "last 1%" type of upgrade, and to be honest, I didn't expect any difference with active plate loads following the power supply. I can only surmise that the choke is making their jobs easier....
 
I've been using a choke at the second 270 ohm resistor for over a year now.  Still sounding great.

Actually, it sounds even better since I finished my Buffalo 3 Dac a few weeks ago.  I love the way my Crack sounds.  :)
 
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