Adding more speaker binding posts and wiring for more than 1 speaker ohm out?

currly30

New member
Is it possible to add more binding post to the amp? Could I technically add a binding post set for each of the ohm output that the amp can be wired for and have them all connected to there respective binding post? I would only be using one set at a time. I have a few different speakers that I am currently using with the amp and they are all different ohms. Right now I have the amp set to out put at 8ohms which is pretty much the middle resistance for the different speakers but would like to be-able to output at the optimal level for each speaker.
 
It's more complicated than you think. The secondary winding is in the form of two tapped windings, which are used in various combinations of series or parallel. This is to avoid the problem of best performance on the 16 ohm tap with deteriorating highs on lower- impedance settings.

You would have to make a switch circuit, using  two DPDT switches or one 4-pole 4-throw switch per channel. At one time, we had a circuit board  that mounted on tall standoffs just below the OPT transformer, for the OPT-2. But between slow sales, rapidly rising switch prices, and the clumsy of disconnectingpower and signal lines in order to turn the heavy amp upside down  to access the switches, it was discontinued. In hindsight, an external box would probably be more practical.
 
I implemented a switched speaker impedance set up on my Stereomour II thats documented in the Stereomour forum see the topic “Stereomour II mods”. I used two 4PDT switches. My wiring diagram is posted in the finial post of that thread. It works great and allows me to switch the speaker outs between 2, 4, 8 and 16 ohm.  I did build a custom chassis plate to enable me to mount the switch accessible from the top side of the chassis. I’m not sure if the Sereomour and Kaiju output transformers are the same, so my Stereomour wiring diagram might not be applicable to the Kaiju.

As Paul suggests, it would be impossible to add a second pair of binding posts and have fixed wiring such that the first pair is wired for 8 ohm and the second pair is wired for 4 ohm. Because, the transformer requires a different configuration of jumpers when wired for 4 vs 8 ohm. The only way to accomplish that required change in jumpers is with switching.
 
hmbscott said:
I implemented a switched speaker impedance set up on my Stereomour II thats documented in the Stereomour forum see the topic “Stereomour II mods”. I used two 4PDT switches. My wiring diagram is posted in the finial post of that thread. It works great and allows me to switch the speaker outs between 2, 4, 8 and 16 ohm.  I did build a custom chassis plate to enable me to mount the switch accessible from the top side of the chassis. I’m not sure if the Sereomour and Kaiju output transformers are the same, so my Stereomour wiring diagram might not be applicable to the Kaiju.

As Paul suggests, it would be impossible to add a second pair of binding posts and have fixed wiring such that the first pair is wired for 8 ohm and the second pair is wired for 4 ohm. Because, the transformer requires a different configuration of jumpers when wired for 4 vs 8 ohm. The only way to accomplish that required change in jumpers is with switching.

Wow, that is a very, very, impressive and beautiful build.
 
Interesting. I would, at a minimum, have to add 4 switch mounting holes to the top plate of the amp in order to set up an ohm switching option. Do you think hmbscotts 4PDT would work on the Kaiju?

I will have to check your diagram for your 4PDT switch set up for the Stereomour II and see if its wiring is similar to the Kaiju's outputs.
 
currly30 said:
Interesting. I would, at a minimum, have to add 4 switch mounting holes to the top plate of the amp in order to set up an ohm switching option. Do you think hmbscotts 4PDT would work on the Kaiju?

I will have to check your diagram for your 4PDT switch set up for the Stereomour II and see if its wiring is similar to the Kaiju's outputs.

Thanks! But, I should have properly credited Paul Joppa with the speaker switching circuit I used.
 
You might try Wiring the amp for either 4 or 16 Whichever seems more appropriate for your speaker collection And give it a try. There is a good chance that you might only need 2 settings. Depending on the speaker it might be more about more efficient power transfer than real sound quality.
And sometimes they sound better on a different tap then what the label says. You can't hurt anything by trying
 
Haha, then it seems like the right person responded in the thread. I can't seem to find my Kaiju Manual. I will have to check if I still have a download left for the amp.

My speakers are, ~11omhs, 8ohms, and ~5 ohms.  The 8 ohms ones say they have a minimum impedance of 5.3 ohms. the other 2 don't say anything about a minimum.
 
If you want to experiment, I would try setting for 4 ohms. Speaker impedance can vary widely depending on the speaker and crossover.
 
It's also worth adding that while the four binding post solution with 0-4-8-16 is super convenient, you are leaving some performance on the table in the output transformer itself when you design it in this manner, and this is especially true for users of the 4 ohm tap. 
 
Would doing a 4, 4P4T on-off, switches set up also result in a loss of performance? Or would having the outputs for the other ohms off be enough to not result in a performance loss?
 
currly30 said:
Would doing a 4, 4P4T on-off, switches set up also result in a loss of performance? Or would having the outputs for the other ohms off be enough to not result in a performance loss?
I assume you meant 4 each 4P2T switches. DT means double-throw; they are not on-off, but rather either-or switches. Using 4-pole switches leaves two poles per channel, so you need only two such switches. And that can make the same wiring as the manual wiring. Typically, it would be set up so that both switches up is 16 ohms, left up/right down is 8 ohms, right up/left down is 4 ohms, and both down is 2 ohms.

The Kaiju layout has a lot going on in the center region, so it might make more sense to use DPDT switches, two per channel (4 total). If they are small enough, they might fit between the input RCA jack and the output binding posts, close to the output transformer secondaries for minimum wiring length. The smallest ones I am acquainted with mount in 1/4 inch diameter holes, if I recall correctly.
 
Paul Joppa said:
I assume you meant 4 each 4P2T switches. DT means double-throw; they are not on-off, but rather either-or switches. Using 4-pole switches leaves two poles per channel, so you need only two such switches. And that can make the same wiring as the manual wiring. Typically, it would be set up so that both switches up is 16 ohms, left up/right down is 8 ohms, right up/left down is 4 ohms, and both down is 2 ohms.

The Kaiju layout has a lot going on in the center region, so it might make more sense to use DPDT switches, two per channel (4 total). If they are small enough, they might fit between the input RCA jack and the output binding posts, close to the output transformer secondaries for minimum wiring length. The smallest ones I am acquainted with mount in 1/4 inch diameter holes, if I recall correctly.

Yes, sorry, that is what I meant. I just got confused.

I was thinking about putting them in place of the volume pots since I am using the BeePre2 to adjust the volume on the Kaiju and would change the Kaiju to a direct feed out. Changing to a direct out would require me to add in resistors of the same value as the volume pots, right? Is there a specific switch you would recommended?
 
Now why didn't I think of that?  :^) 

A rotary 4P4T (per channel) would fit best in those 3/8" holes. But they are not common. If you give up the 2-ohm setting, a 4P3T would give you 4-8-16 ohms - If it were me, I would go with something like the source selectors we use on preamps - cheap and workable. But you might want something a bit beefier for speaker-level currents. Let me think about it and look around for a bit.
 
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